Advertisement

Lost in the supermarket

Reading Time:1 minute
Why you can trust SCMP
David Major

My supermarket has turned on me. I no longer recognise it. It's like a girlfriend who goes to Europe for the summer and comes back with a dolphin tattoo, a love of surfing and a fluency in Spanish.

My local Happy Valley supermarket went upscale and global, and left me behind. I remember standing in front of the bread aisle years ago, confronted by long rows of shiny packages. They're gone, replaced by hundreds of varieties of odd-looking products. I don't know what's inside the packages- the writing is in Japanese.

Then there are the fancy imported foods, shelves deep. Cracked wheat wafers from Liechtenstein, Gozitan cheeselets from Malta, honey from a remote island off New Zealand. At HK$180 a jar. When I was young, honey cost HK$40, tasted like syrup and came in a squeeze bottle with a nozzle that was forever blocked. One bottle lasted through grade school.

Advertisement

I studied existentialism at university, but Albert Camus is no help when it comes to the ethics of food. Looking at the chilled meats, I am presented with chicken breasts tenderly reared in a Guangdong factory, flash frozen and priced at a reasonable HK$35. You cannot argue with HK$35, but knowing how the bird suffered, well, I don't need the karma. The alternative is an organic chicken raised on an Oregon farm, retailing at HK$135.

Choosing eggs is worse. Free-range, uncaged, hormone-free, vegetarian-feed. Those layers live better than I do. For HK$70, you get top-of-the line eggs, juicy with omega-3 fatty acids. Plus they came from the same place, on the other side of the world, I am from. Does that make them local?

Advertisement

At least they haven't torn down the wet market.

Advertisement
Select Voice
Choose your listening speed
Get through articles 2x faster
1.25x
250 WPM
Slow
Average
Fast
1.25x