Wild goose chase? France works to rouse China’s appetite for pricey, imported foie gras
French producers hope their famed pate can win a slice of China’s market, but price sensitivities and domestic competition could mean their goose is cooked
From luxury handbags to vintage Bordeaux, China’s consumers have long associated French products with fine living. Now, France aims to hook the country’s expanding middle class on another local speciality: foie gras.
With French foie gras also facing import bans in other key markets, some producers view China as a potential answer to the industry’s problems. But exporters may be underestimating the challenges they would face in the Chinese market – especially the intense local competition, insiders cautioned.
Still, the industry’s ambitions were on full display at the China International Import Expo – China’s biggest import fair – in Shanghai last month, where the French foie gras industry association CIFOG made its debut appearance.
CIFOG was out to make a splash, with a booth nestled beneath a hulking replica of the Eiffel Tower. Chefs from the Michelin-starred restaurant Maison Lameloise Shanghai were brought in to prepare fresh foie gras, which attracted a crowd – including a visiting French trade minister.