Advertisement
Food and Drinks
Lifestyle100 Top Tables

Drink in Focus: Chinmoku at The Aubrey

This subtle yet effortlessly elegant cocktail combines gin and shochu as a base to allow umami nori flavours to tease the palate

Reading Time:2 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
The Chinmoku from The Aubrey’s new The Art of Shibumi menu. Photo: Handout
Josiah Ng
When Stefano Bussi was named bar manager at The Aubrey, the modern Japanese izakaya at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, many wondered when the 2024 Diageo Bartender of the Year for Hong Kong & Macau would update the restaurant and bar’s selection of signature cocktails. Anticipation was high, but Bussi delivered a polished new concept this month, titled the Art of Shibumi and focusing on the similarly named Japanese concept of quiet, effortless excellence.

The menu features eighteen distinct cocktails spanning three sections or approaches. The Elegant portion of the menu focuses on clean, focused flavours; the Refined focuses on layering and combining profiles; while the Imperfect embraces a wabi-sabi approach – adventurous combinations deftly executed. There are also highball expressions of these three concepts, as well as non-alcoholic options.

The Aubrey’s new menu, the Art of Shibumi. Photo: Handout
The Aubrey’s new menu, the Art of Shibumi. Photo: Handout

For a menu themed on quiet excellence, the selection seems rather maximalist – the menu includes combinations like pistachio, caramel and white miso, or peanut butter, Wagyu oil (made sustainably from scraps sourced from the kitchens of the hotel’s restaurants) and soy sauce. But subtlety is still Bussi’s modus operandi.

Advertisement

For example, the Chinmoku, from the menu’s Refined section, is based on the Japanese word for silence, stillness or reticence and focuses on a common Japanese ingredient – nori (seaweed). The drink combines gin, nori-infused shochu, The Aubrey’s own sake, Suze, green apple juice, camomile syrup and celery bitters. It’s a fitting name for a cocktail where we felt the nori’s umami-rich sweetness was the very last note on the palate.

“When developing the cocktail,” Bussi says, “we found out that the nori was actually ‘silent’ as it does not come through at the forefront of the cocktail but reveals itself after a few sips.”

Stefano Bussi, who recently took over the bar at The Aubrey, was named Bartender of the Year for Hong Kong and Macau at the Diageo World Class 2024. Photo: Handout
Stefano Bussi, who recently took over the bar at The Aubrey, was named Bartender of the Year for Hong Kong and Macau at the Diageo World Class 2024. Photo: Handout

To save the nori notes for last, Bussi used a gin (Tanqueray No. 10) and shochu split base to reduce the final alcohol content while maintaining a range of flavours he could bring to the forefront. The camomile notes from Tanqueray No. 10 were amplified by a camomile syrup, which was cold brewed with a 1:1 simple syrup using refined sugar.

Advertisement
Advertisement
Select Voice
Choose your listening speed
Get through articles 2x faster
1.25x
250 WPM
Slow
Average
Fast
1.25x