Indonesian private island popular with Singaporeans offers idyllic setting for artists

When strolling through a beach resort, it is not often that you pass a sculptor chiselling driftwood or catch sight of a textile artist steeping fabric in a vat of dye. But such scenes are a daily occurrence on Nikoi Island in Indonesia. The private island resort about 50 miles (80km) away from Singapore in the Riau Archipelago not only welcomes tourists but also hosts Southeast Asian artists through its year-round Ubah Rumah Residency programme. “There is an element of surprise when guests see someone who doesn’t look like staff at work in the rumah [studio home],” says Ernest Goh, a Singaporean artist and co-artistic director of the programme. “A lot of people stop in their tracks to watch.” A popular weekend destination for Singapore residents, Nikoi is the epitome of barefoot luxury. The 15-hectare (37-acre) island, with its white sand and turquoise waters, has just 18 villas strung along its shoreline. Accessible only by speedboat from the neighbouring island Bintan, the intimate resort features a beach bar, two restaurants, a spa housed in tents, two grass tennis courts, a rustic kids’ club and a pool – all set against the backdrop of an untamed rainforest. Founded in 2004 by a group of Singapore-based expats, including Australian former banker Andrew Dixon, the island was initially bought as a private weekend retreat. But the group soon saw the potential to develop an eco-conscious resort. This Robinson Crusoe-style getaway is popular among well-heeled travellers looking for something different and places a strong emphasis on sustainability and responsible tourism. “We aren’t offering a bling experience; in some sense this is the antithesis of that,” Dixon says, describing privacy and space as a different kind of luxury. Where possible, the resort was built using salvaged driftwood found in the ocean. The villas were constructed using local materials in a traditional architectural style. They have roofs thatched from alang-alang grass and no air conditioning. The resort collects rainwater for use in showers and uses solar power to heat water. Fixed meals are served to avoid food waste, and the resort composts leftovers. The resort also operates two foundations dedicated to marine conservation and education initiatives in the Riau Archipelago. In 2023, Dixon launched the Ubah Rumah Residency programme to add more to the island experience. “The cultural elements of the Bintan area are usually quite hidden. We were showcasing local culture through architecture and food, but we always felt something was missing,” he says. After visiting Wanas Hotel, a property in southern Sweden known for its sculpture park, artist talks and workshops, Dixon was inspired to launch a residency and invited Goh and artist Alecia Neo to co-direct it. The first artist they invited was Kuala Lumpur-based performance artist Yeo Lyle. The son of a Malaysian fisherman, his work explores local maritime culture. After a few weeks on the island, Yeo invited some of the hotel’s staff to assist with a performance exploring man’s relationship with nature. He moved through the jungle, tethered to his collaborator, Malaysian actress Thian Siew Kim, by a rope. Eventually, the pair plunged into the pool, disrobed, and disappeared into the jungle nude. Dixon admits that he was at first reluctant to allow the performance to go ahead because of the nudity. “For a moment, I thought, ‘Is it going to be like this every time we invite an artist?’” he says with a laugh. “But the artist got on the phone with me and sold it to us.” Dixon agreed – on the condition that guests were informed in advance. The work was well received, with a crowd of hotel guests trailing the performers throughout the resort. Since then, the resort has hosted a range of experimental artists from Southeast Asia, giving them free rein to respond to the natural environment of the island and the cultural context of the Riau Islands. “Many of the artists are emerging and come from alternative, non-traditional art backgrounds – and that’s what excites us,” Neo says. “We are interested in discovering new voices who bring fresh perspectives to themes of ecology and hosting.” The residency has two tracks: the Artist Track (lasting four to six weeks) and a shorter Researcher Track (lasting 10 to 14 days) for those studying the region. Residents stay in simple villas made of driftwood, with an open-air studio on the ground floor and a cosy loft bedroom above. Outcomes vary from performances to permanent artworks, such as a monumental boat sculpture by Thai artist Sakorn Wongratchasi and environmentalist Anunta Intra-aksorn. The pair’s project began by spending time with members of the Orang Laut – seafaring communities who live around Singapore, Peninsular Malaysia and the Riau Islands. They then used fish poison tree branches found on Nikoi, and bamboo and white cotton thread from Thailand, to make a delicate boat to serve as a dwelling for the island’s spirits, so that they would not be disturbed by visitors. Goh says that several artists engage with animist beliefs and the spiritual presence of the land and sea, central to the Orang Laut’s world view. Manila-based artist Florence Cinco, for instance, carved a raw driftwood sculpture, Unglo (2024), inspired by mythical creatures in Filipino folklore that serve as guardians of the natural world. Drawing inspiration from spiritual practices and ancient rituals, he did a closing performance involving dancing and chanting in front of his sculpture and an altar of turmeric, rocks and other sacred materials. “He wanted to remind audiences of the deep wisdom embedded in nature and indigenous cultures,” Neo says. Workshops for guests and the hotel staff are also a key part of the residency. Sakorn and Intra-aksorn, for instance, held woodcarving workshops and shared knowledge about native plants and local folklore. Recently, Filipino artist Nicky Dumapit showed guests how to craft bamboo instruments mimicking bird calls. “It’s not just about artists taking inspiration or materials from the island,” Goh says. “They also leave something behind – whether it’s knowledge, a skill or a memory.” Dixon, who also co-founded the nearby Cempedak Island resort, plans to launch a writers’ residency there soon. “Our guests are curious, educated and open-minded,” he says. “They are not just here for sun and sea – they appreciate learning something new.” Other art residencies on islands in Southeast Asia and beyond: Lubi Art Residency, Kopiat Island, Philippines Launched by Manila-based gallery Silverlens in partnership with Dusit Thani Lubi Plantation Resort, the Lubi Art Residency is held on Kopiat Island in the southern Philippines. Founded in 2023, the programme invites artists to create ephemeral site-specific works using natural materials and found objects, such as driftwood, bamboo and beach debris. Fog & Mist Residency, Fogo Island, Canada A collaboration between Hong Kong independent art space Para Site, Fogo Island Arts and the Museum of Contemporary Art Toronto (MOCA), this residency hosts emerging Hong Kong artists for a three-month stay on a remote island off the coast of Newfoundland, Canada. The inaugural resident was Wong Winsome Dumalagan, whose practice centres on experimental videography and installations. Ma Umi Residencies, Ishigaki, Japan Held on Hirakubo Ishigaki Island’s northern peninsula, this two-week artist residency was co-founded by Hong Kong-based artist and architect Valérie Portefaix. Artists create work inspired by the land, ocean and surrounding communities, and the residency culminates in a public presentation.

Indonesian private island popular with Singaporeans offers idyllic setting for artists

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}On Indonesia’s Nikoi island, sculptures, shows and workshops celebrate indigenous cultures as part of a year-round artist residency scheme

On Indonesia’s Nikoi island, sculptures, shows and workshops celebrate indigenous cultures as part of a year-round artist residency scheme