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Vincenzo La Torre

Chief Editor, Style; Fashion Editor, Post Magazine


Things kicked into high gear at Paris Fashion Week with the Dior show, held amid freezing temperatures at the Musée Rodin on the city’s Left Bank.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, the label’s creative director, looked to the youthquake movement of 1968, offering once again her feminist take on a collection that, political message aside, will resonate with the younger demographic Dior has been targeting since Chiuri’s arrival.

Anthony Vaccarello also courted the young with a Saint Laurent show that stayed true to his va-va voom and less-(clothing)-is-more aesthetic without entering vulgar or crass territory.

Best of Milan Fashion Week: heads off to Gucci, kudos to labels that gave tired catwalk shows a pass
Both Clare Waight-Keller at Givenchy and Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloé showed their sophomore collections. Keller offered a very elegant line-up of luxurious separates that perhaps erred too much on the safe side, while Ramsay-Levi is cementing her strong vision at Chloé, which in just two seasons has shed its image as the go-to brand for boho girls to become a source of wardrobe staples for strong women who mean business.




Jonathan Anderson at Loewe never fails to deliver, and this season, inspired by the literary classics he left on each seat, such as Don Quixote and Wuthering Heights, he came up with a series of, well, wardrobe classics featuring the intricate workmanship and arts-and-crafts touches that have become signatures of the Spanish leather-goods house since he took the helm.


Balenciaga was another blockbuster show, with creative director Demna Gvasalia riffing on his favourite theme, streetwear meets couture, while also giving the collection a grown-up feel that, if you don’t count the heavily layered looks that came at the end, drew a clear line between his work at his own brand, Vetements, and his gig at Balenciaga.


Right before the shows began it was announced that Chinese conglomerate Fosun had bought a majority stake in beleaguered house Lanvin. Let’s hope that the cash injection will help the brand get back on its feet, as its autumn/winter 2018 collection was anything but memorable.


Hermès’ offering, while also quite safe, will be catnip for its avid fans (we can already picture those cosy blankets complete with leather straps on the arms of wealthy jet-setters around the world), while Valentino seems to be doing no wrong under Pierpaolo Piccioli, who has been the sole creative director since Maria Grazia Chiuri’s appointment at Dior.


By focusing on celebrating beauty, look after look, in his impeccable shows, Piccioli has managed to keep building momentum for the Italian brand while also giving it a fresher and more casual attitude.
Disgust as Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld chops down 100-year-old trees for nature-themed Paris fashion show
While all everyone could talk about after the McQueen show were the beautiful monogrammed fisherman’s sweaters left on every seat, the collection was also a highlight, not just for its inventive mix of tailoring and dreamy looks that designer Sarah Burton has become a master at but also for its inclusive casting, which featured models of all ethnicities and, just as important, ages and sizes.


Paris stalwart Chanel didn’t disappoint, either, with a foliage-inspired collection that was a welcome change from recent efforts, which have felt a bit gimmicky and light on substance – although the house was slammed for chopping down 100-year-old trees for its set.


On the last day, before none other than Louis Vuitton, Hong Kong-based designer Anais Jourden made her Paris catwalk debut. It was remarkable to see how her signature touches, such as embellished A-line skirts and frayed edges, resonated on such a global stage.




In the #MeToo and #TimesUp era, girl power is ruling the runway

Paris fashion house Poiret enjoys a modern-day renaissance led by master couturier Yin Yiqing

Forget the ‘it’ bag: the season’s hottest fashion accessory is self-expression

Top 10 autumn/winter 2018 shows at Paris Fashion Week 

Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2018

The best of Paris Fashion Week: blockbuster Balenciaga, confident Chloé, dreamy McQueen, and a Hong Kong debutante

Demna Gvasalia gave Balenciaga a grown-up look, Chloé caters to women who mean business, Sarah Burton was masterful at McQueen, and Piccioli can do no wrong at Valentino, while Anais Jourden makes an assured Paris debut

(180227) -- PARIS, Feb. 27, 2018 (Xinhua) -- A model presents a creation of Christian Dior during the Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2018 in Paris, France, on Feb. 27, 2018. (Xinhua/Piero Biasion)

(180302) -- PARIS, March 2, 2018 (Xinhua) -- A model presents a creation of Loewe during the Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 in Paris, France, on March 2, 2018. (Xinhua/Piero Biasion)

(180304) -- PARIS, March 4, 2018 (Xinhua) -- A model presents a creation of Givenchy during Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 in Paris, France, on March 4, 2018. (Xinhua/Piero Biasion)

TOPSHOT - A model presents a creation for Saint Laurent during the 2018/2019 fall/winter collection fashion show on February 27, 2018 in Paris. / AFP PHOTO / ALAIN JOCARD

(180301) -- PARIS, March 1, 2018 (Xinhua) -- A model presents creation of Chloe during the Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2018 in Paris, France, on March 1, 2018. (Xinhua/Piero Biasion)

Models present creations by German designer Karl Lagerfeld as part of his Autumn/Winter 2018-2019 women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Chanel at the Grand Palais during Paris Fashion Week, France March 6, 2018. REUTERS/Pascal Rossignol TPX IMAGES OF THE DAY

TOPSHOT - A model presents a creation for Alexander McQueen during the 2018/2019 fall/winter collection fashion show on March 5, 2018 in Paris. / AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT

Anais Jourden fall/winter 2018

TOPSHOT - A model presents a creation for Valentino during the 2018/2019 fall/winter collection fashion show on March 4, 2018 in Paris. / AFP PHOTO / Patrick KOVARIK

A model presents a creation by designer Anthony Vaccarello as part of his Autumn/Winter 2018-2019 women's ready-to-wear collection show for fashion house Saint Laurent during Fashion Week in Paris, France, February 27, 2018. REUTERS/Pascal Rossignol

Models present creations for Givenchy during the women's 2018/2019 fall/winter collection fashion show on March 4, 2018 in Paris. / AFP PHOTO / ALAIN JOCARD

(180228) -- PARIS, Feb. 28, 2018 (Xinhua) -- A model presents a creation of Lanvin during the Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2018 in Paris, France, on Feb. 28, 2018. (Xinhua/Piero Biasion)

epaselect epa06584083 Models present creations from the Fall/ Winter 2018/2019 of the Women Ready to Wear collection by German designer Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel fashion house during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France, 06 March 2018. The presentation of the Women's collections runs from 26 February to 06 March. EPA-EFE/IAN LANGSDON

Balenciaga Fall Winter 2018 collection. MUST CREDIT: Photo for The Washington Post by Jonas Gustavsson, MCV Photo.

A model presents a creation for Alexander McQueen during the 2018/2019 fall/winter collection fashion show on March 5, 2018 in Paris. / AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT

(180301) -- PARIS, March 1, 2018 (Xinhua) -- Models present creations of Chloe during the Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2018 in Paris, France, on March 1, 2018. (Xinhua/Piero Biasion)

(180304) -- PARIS, March 4, 2018 (Xinhua) -- Models present creations of Valentino during Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 in Paris, France, on March 4, 2018. (Xinhua/Piero Biasion)

Models present creations by Christian Dior during the Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2018 shows. Photo: Xinhua

Disgust as Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld chops down 100-year-old trees for nature-themed Paris fashion show

‘Nature is not chopping down trees in a forest, putting them up for a few hours for a show and then throwing them into a skip’

Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini acknowledge at the end of Fendi Autumn/Winter 2018 women collection show during Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy February 22, 2018. REUTERS/Tony Gentile

A model presents a creation from the Fall/ Winter 2018/2019 of the Women Ready to Wear collection by German designer Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel during in Paris on Tuesday. Photo: EPA

Lifestyle

Fashion & Beauty

Demna Gvasalia gave Balenciaga a grown-up look, Chloé caters to women who mean business, Sarah Burton was masterful at McQueen, and Piccioli can do no wrong at Valentino, while Anais Jourden makes an assured Paris debut
