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‘Being Chinese is tough’: New York Fashion Week’s Asian designers on stereotypes, and the statements their collections make

  • This year’s New York Fashion Week featured a crop of Chinese, Korean and Japanese designers who, through their collections, called for more Asian representation
  • They speak about the stereotyping and labelling they face, putting their culture and heritage in their collections, and how they can reach a bigger audience

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A model walks the runway wearing Adeam, by Japanese designer Hanako Maeda, during New York Fashion Week in February 2023. Photo: Getty Images
Nadja Sayej

This year’s New York Fashion Week (NYFW) featured a crop of rising Chinese, South Korean and Japanese designers who brought with them Eastern culture and influences – and who, through the themes of nature, nostalgia and cultural exchange, called for more Asian representation in fashion.

Chinese-born, New York-based designer Wei Lin, founder of knitwear brand PH5, showed an autumn/winter collection at a presentation titled “This is not a jellyfish” at a studio in the city.

Outside, a line snaked around the block; inside the showroom, models stood on an ocean-like structure creating wave formations with their arms.

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The knitwear collection, inspired by marine creatures and coral reefs, featured curved silhouettes in underwater blue hues, neons and pastels.

A look from PH5’s autumn/winter collection. Photo: Stephanie Geddes
A look from PH5’s autumn/winter collection. Photo: Stephanie Geddes

“This season is about going underwater with the jellyfish to see how ocean plastic is a big problem,” Lin, who is also a passionate scuba diver, tells the Post.

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While diving in the Maldives, the fashion designer saw a plastic bag and thought it was a jellyfish – the same mistake that many marine animals make before they attempt to eat it.
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