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They’ve dressed Princess Diana, Zendaya, Beyoncé – now Saudi designers have hit the catwalk at home in the first Riyadh Fashion Week

  • Princess Diana was among couturier Adnan Akbar’s clients, along with French first ladies. Fellow Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi has dressed Beyoncé and Zendaya
  • At the first Riyadh Fashion Week they and others showed how Saudi fashion is changing to meet the needs of professional women freed from the abaya and hijab

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A look from the couture show of Saudi designer Adnan Akbar, who once dressed Princess Diana, shown at the first Riyadh Fashion Week in Saudi Arabia. A mixed-gender crowd watched a string of looks, mostly from home-based designers, come down the catwalk. Photo Getty Images
Agence France-Presse

Couturier Adnan Akbar’s past clients included Princess Diana and two French first ladies, but until recently he had never staged a major fashion show in his native Saudi Arabia.

The 74-year-old, dubbed the “Saint Laurent of the Middle East”, was among the most decorated designers at the inaugural Riyadh Fashion Week this year, a milestone in a country that used to require women to wear hijab headscarves and abaya robes in public.

On a catwalk set up in Riyadh’s financial district, in front of a mixed-gender crowd of Instagram influencers and diplomats, models donned more than two dozen of Akbar’s floor-length gowns, and one wedding dress sewn from French lace.

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It was a world away from most prior fashion shows in the Gulf kingdom: small, women-only gatherings in private homes or, in one famous example, a public show that did away with models altogether, hanging dresses from flying drones.

A model walks the runway during the Adnan Akbar Haute Couture show at Riyadh Fashion Week. Photo: Getty Images
A model walks the runway during the Adnan Akbar Haute Couture show at Riyadh Fashion Week. Photo: Getty Images

“It’s a huge change, what’s happening now,” said Abdullah Akbar, Adnan’s son and managing director of the family brand.

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