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Language Matters | How the kebaya became a symbol of Southeast Asian heritage, and how its name spread
The Unesco-listed garment is proudly worn from Indonesia to Malaysia, its name revealing centuries of cultural exchange with Asia and Europe
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Cheongsam, qipao, kimono, hanbok, sari, salwar-kameez – these traditional Asian outfits and their names have long been embraced by the English-speaking world. What about kebaya?
The kebaya has been a significant element of cultural heritage for centuries. These hip- to shin-length front-opening tunics or blouses are made from various materials such as cotton or voile, are often adorned with intricate embroidery and are worn with fasteners such as brooches, buttons or a sash. The celebrated modern female cabin crew uniforms of the airlines of Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia give an idea.
Several Southeast Asian nations had previously laid claim to the kebaya (pronounced “kuh-BYE-ah”) as their traditional dress symbolising their unique heritage and identity.
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The garment’s inscription onto the Unesco Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in December 2024 was most significant for being a joint bid made by five countries – Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand – in a show of mutual respect and cross-border interaction.
That the garment and its underlying cultural knowledge span the region should not be surprising.
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