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Can Chanel, Dior and Gucci bring the big spenders back as luxury industry struggles?

A new generation of designers is taking command at brands from Chanel and Dior to Celine and Versace to reverse 2024’s slump in the sector

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A model presents a creation by designer Maria Grazia Chiuri during the Christian Dior Cruise 2026 collection show at Villa Albani Torlonia in Rome, Italy, on May 27, 2025. Photo: Reuters
Reuters

Chanel and Dior are among a record number of top fashion brands that will introduce new designers’ collections on the catwalk in the coming weeks, aiming to reignite shoppers’ interest in a bruised luxury industry that lost one of its greats, Giorgio Armani, last week.

The stakes are high for the US$400 billion sector, which kicks off a month of fashion shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris on September 10. Brands have struggled to revamp sales since the post-pandemic boom wound down two years ago.

After averaging annual growth of 10 per cent for nearly a decade, the sector slumped last year, triggering a flurry of changes at the leadership and creative levels.

“The industry is facing troubled waters,” says Jonathan Siboni, chief executive of consultancy Luxurynsight.

The Chinese economy has remained hobbled by a property crisis, while US President Donald Trump’s trade war is weighing on US consumer confidence and threatening margins at European high-end brands.
Models present creations by Chanel as part of its haute couture autumn/winter 2025-26 collection show in Paris, on July 8, 2025. Photo: Reuters
Models present creations by Chanel as part of its haute couture autumn/winter 2025-26 collection show in Paris, on July 8, 2025. Photo: Reuters

The slump has prompted sweeping change across the sector, with new CEOs arriving at companies including Gucci-owner Kering and Italian brand Valentino, as well as high-level management reshuffles at the world’s biggest luxury conglomerate, LVMH.

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