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Hong Kong celebrates 130 years of Tiffany diamond engagement rings

Charles Lewis Tiffany created the first raised setting for a diamond on a ring in 1886, setting off a trend that’s being marked with display at The Landmark in Central featuring an 8.8 carat diamond ring

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This 8.8 carat diamond is currently on display at the Landmark Atrium in Central to mark 130 years of the Tiffany setting.
Mischa Moselle

It’s a story sure to divide the sexes – how much you think it’s now traditional to make a wedding proposal with a diamond ring probably depends on whether you are buying or receiving it.

The tradition dates back 130 years, according to the company history of jewellers Tiffany & Co. It was in 1886, in the decade that saw the invention of the electric iron, the ballpoint pen, the dishwasher and Coca-Cola, that Charles Lewis Tiffany created the first raised setting for a diamond on a ring.

Previously, diamonds were set into the band itself and only the top of the stone would have been visible. It is this innovation that is said to have popularised the idea of the engagement ring. Tiffany & Co now has more than 100 styles of raised setting.

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Charles Lewis Tiffany (left) at one of his stores in the United States.
Charles Lewis Tiffany (left) at one of his stores in the United States.

The setting and its history are being celebrated in an exhibition in the Landmark mall in Hong Kong’s Central business district, until October 16. Visitors can learn about the company history, see an engraver at work and a ring set with an 8.88 carat diamond valued at HK$12 million.

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The 130th anniversary exhibition at the Landmark Atrium in Central. Photo: May Tse
The 130th anniversary exhibition at the Landmark Atrium in Central. Photo: May Tse
Hand engraver Stephany Gabriel can be seen at work at the Landmark display. Photo: May Tse
Hand engraver Stephany Gabriel can be seen at work at the Landmark display. Photo: May Tse

The jewellery and its association with the rich and famous have helped the company become a byword for glamour. Mary Todd Lincoln was the first of the First Ladies of the United States to wear Tiffany jewellery but it has been seen on many others since. In 1903 Franklin Delano Roosevelt proposed to Eleanor with a ring. The couple were just 22 and 19 years old. Despite his acknowledged philandering and her rumoured lesbianism, the couple remained married until FDR’s death in 1945.

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