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Food and Drinks
LifestyleFood & Drink

The Chinese-West African restaurant in London that earned a Michelin star in just a year

  • Princeton-educated Chinese-Canadian Jeremy Chan and his friend, LSE graduate Iré Hassan-Odukale, set up Ikoyi in London in 2017
  • They combine ingredients and flavours from West Africa with Chan’s culinary skills and ideas to come up with something unique

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Jeremy Chan and Iré Hassan-Odukale, Ikoyi’s co-founders. Photo: PA Jorgensen
Lucy Morgan

An imaginative London restaurant created by a Chinese-Canadian chef and a Nigerian-Sierra Leonean director has surprised British gastronomes and was last month awarded a star in the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2019.

Fuelled by West African flavours, Ikoyi is now among the 14 of London’s 71 Michelin-starred restaurants serving non-European cuisine. The Araki, a small Japanese omakase establishment, holds the highest accolade of three stars. Umu, another Japanese place, has two stars. Six Indian and five Chinese restaurants each have a single star.

Ikoyi – named after a suburb of Lagos, Nigeria – opened in central London in the summer of 2017 and is the first West African-inspired restaurant to be honoured by the guide.

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After a private school education in Britain, co-founder and head chef Jeremy Chan studied languages and philosophy at Princeton University in the United States before taking a job in finance. Realising it was not for him, he left and started work as a chef, spending nearly five years gaining experience at highly regarded European restaurants Noma, Hibiscus and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.

Wild tiger prawn, grits and banga bisque at Ikoyi. Photo: PA Jorgensen
Wild tiger prawn, grits and banga bisque at Ikoyi. Photo: PA Jorgensen
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“There were some tough moments,” Chan says. “Having a really serious academic background, working in finance and having financial stability … then leaving that and working for free, for months at a time, with no career prospects, no cooking school.”

Ikoyi’s other co-founder, Iré Hassan-Odukale – a friend of Chan’s since their teenage years – moved to London when he was 16 to finish his schooling, studied politics and economics at the London School of Economics, then began a career in insurance.

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