How Sichuan peppercorns give dishes that numbing mala flavour, and a recipe idea

The spice we know as Sichuan peppercorn is not actually part of the pepper family, although it is used in the food of China’s Sichuan province (as well as in a few other cuisines). The spice is very fragrant but the effect on the tongue is less a flavour than a tingling sensation that numbs. The Sichuan peppercorn is the fruit of a type of prickly ash that belongs to the citrus family – and because it can carry citrus canker bacteria that has the potential to decimate the citrus industry in the United States, it cannot be imported into that country unless it has been irradiated. When buying Sichuan peppercorns, look for a bright, reddish colour; if they are dull and brown, they will not be very aromatic. To enhance their fragrance, Sichuan peppercorns are usually toasted by being stirred in an unoiled pan. They can also be lightly fried, with the spice imparting its numbing sensation to the oil used. The fragrance comes from the dried husk rather than the small, shiny seed within, which is often discarded. In Sichuanese cooking, the peppercorns are usually combined with chillies to produce the distinctive mala (tingling/numbing and spicy) flavour the cuisine is known for. Most people are familiar with the peppercorn in the popular dish mapo tofu. There are many versions – in some places it is prepared with pork, in others with beef, and it can also be vegetarian. But the constants are bean curd (of course), Sichuan peppercorns and chilli. I like to toast Sichuan peppercorns then finely grind them, sieve out the seeds, mix the powder with salt and a bit of sugar, then sprinkle the mixture over roast chicken. Stir-fried lamb kidneys with cumin, Sichuan peppercorns, garlic, Chinese celery and chillies Lamb kidneys have a much milder flavour than those of full-grown animals. Vendors will often ask if you want them cleaned; if yours does, accept the offer. I buy lamb kidneys – cleaned – from online shop Gonzalo, or from Hong Kong vendors that specialise in fresh lamb. Once all the ingredients have been prepared, this dish takes less than five minutes to cook. If you overcook the kidneys, they will be tough. The dish serves six to eight as part of a Chinese meal. Ingredients 700 grams whole lamb kidneys 450 grams cleaned kidneys 1-2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns 3 garlic cloves 1 tsp whole cumin seeds 6 stalks Chinese celery 4-6 dried red chillies 1 -2 banana chillies and/or red bird’s-eye chillies, or to taste About 15ml soy sauce, or to taste Fine sea salt, if needed 10ml cooking oil Directions 1. If using whole kidneys, remove and discard any fat and membrane from the exterior. Slice the kidneys in half lengthwise to reveal the interior, then remove the white core and any veins (I snip these parts out with kitchen shears). 2. Put the cleaned kidneys in a colander and rinse them thoroughly with running water, then dry them as thoroughly as possible with kitchen towels. Lay the kidneys cut-side down on a cutting board and score the exterior in a cross-hatch pattern. Cut the kidneys into bite-sized pieces and set them aside. 3. Put the Sichuan peppercorns in a small, unoiled skillet and place over a medium flame. Stir constantly for about a minute, or until the peppercorns are lightly toasted. Crush them lightly in a mortar. Thinly slice the garlic cloves. 4. Trim the leaves from the Chinese celery stalks and set them aside to use as a garnish. Cut the stalks into 2.5cm lengths. If using bird’s-eye chillies, cut them in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Finely chop both types of chilli. 5. Heat a wok over a high flame and, when it is hot, add the oil. Add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle briefly, then add the dried red chillies. Stir them until they darken slightly, then add the celery, garlic and fresh chillies. Cook, stirring often, for about a minute, then add the kidneys. 6. Stir-fry until the kidneys start to lose their pink colour, then mix in the Sichuan peppercorns and soy sauce. Stir-fry over a high flame until the kidneys are cooked – they should still be a little pink inside. Taste for seasonings and mix in a little salt, if needed. Garnish with the reserved celery leaves, then serve immediately with steamed white rice.

How Sichuan peppercorns give dishes that numbing mala flavour, and a recipe idea

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}The defining spice of Sichuan cuisine, these tiny fruits are typically toasted to add a tingle to dishes like mapo tofu and stir fry

The defining spice of Sichuan cuisine, these tiny fruits are typically toasted to add a tingle to dishes like mapo tofu and stir fry