On the Menu | Why Noma’s Taipei pop-up didn’t pop for me with its surprisingly off-balance meal

It would be an understatement to declare that Noma in Copenhagen, one of the world’s most famous restaurants, has a cult following. Founded by René Redzepi in 2003, it remains at the top of many foodie-travellers’ bucket lists and brought Nordic cuisine and ingredients into the international spotlight.

I myself was booked to go in April 2020, before a certain virus put a stop to that particular journey. Somehow, years later, I never quite felt the urge to make another booking. Perhaps I was tired and more than a little disillusioned by the culture of fine dining and all of its trappings.

Still, I accepted an invitation this month to an exclusive pop-up by the Noma team in collaboration with the Taiwanese fashion brand Onefifteen, which has taken over the site of the former US army barracks in Taipei’s Yangmingshan area to create a multifaceted lifestyle destination, YMS by Onefifteen.

With numerous spaces such as Gallery 4, Spa 6, Lab 10 (a teahouse and whisky lounge) and the full-service Restaurant 12, the collection of modernist white buildings will also welcome, eventually, Dwell 8 (guest accommodation).

To break in the dining space, which will primarily be a Spanish fine-dining venue, it appears the founders decided to reach for the stars – by inviting Noma for a four-night pop-up exclusive to YMS by Onefifteen members.