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Food and Drinks
LifestyleFood & Drink

Best things to eat in Shunde, China’s ‘cradle of Cantonese cuisine’

Hong Kong chef Silas Li takes us on a food tour of Shunde for specialities including ‘unforgettable’ fish, Chencun noodles and Lunjiao cake

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Steamed “unforgettable” empurau fish belly at Jiang Shun Seafood Restaurant, in Shunde. Hong Kong chef Silas Li calls the area in Foshan, Guangdong province, his second home. Photo: Hei-kiu Au
Hei Kiu Au

Shunde, a district of the city of Foshan in China’s Guangdong province, is one of those places where you can eat good food, but you can eat great food if you know an insider.

One such person is Silas Li, the executive chef of Hong Kong Cuisine 1983, in Hong Kong’s Happy Valley neighbourhood, who calls the district his second home.

Shunde, known as the “cradle of Cantonese cuisine”, is a three- to four-hour drive from Hong Kong, but the high-speed train to Guangzhounan station – which takes just under an hour – and a quick Didi ride make it an easy pilgrimage for discerning gourmands.
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Our journey began at the Jiang Shun Seafood Restaurant in Ronggui, a surprisingly rustic spot perched by the Xijiang (West River). We knew we were in the right place when our arrival was delayed by a truck unloading the day’s catch, destined directly for our table.

Silas Li is executive chef of Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 in Happy Valley. Photo: Hei-kiu Au
Silas Li is executive chef of Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 in Happy Valley. Photo: Hei-kiu Au
“First stop has to be fish,” Li said, his eyes alight. True to another of Shunde’s nicknames, the “land of fish and rice”, the fish tanks teemed with life: giant clams, river prawns and our headliner, the “unforgettable” empurau fish.
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“It earns that name for its taste,” Li said. “But the price is what really makes it unforgettable.” This local freshwater fish, which is native to Southeast Asia and has a diet of wild fruit, can set you back at least a couple of thousand Hong Kong dollars.

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