Peking duck is a centuries-old favourite – how do Hong Kong’s top chefs make theirs?
Peking duck was a hit in China’s imperial courts and is just as popular now. Hong Kong chefs share their thoughts on the classic roast dish
Marinated in a rich blend of Sichuan spices and roasted until the skin transforms into a crackling golden armour, the flaming Peking duck at Hutong restaurant in Hong Kong’s Tsim Sha Tsui neighbourhood is a feast for the senses.
Paired with standard companions such as pancakes, hoisin sauce and cucumber, the duck also comes with a side dish of drama: it is flambéed and carved at the table with a pianya dao – a traditional knife with a long, thin, rectangular blade designed to slice duck meat into precise portions.
While precise air-drying and roasting are key steps to achieving the crispy skin, finishing the cooking with fire gives it extra snap, says Hutong’s barbecue head chef, Ho Wing-cheong. The crunch factor is crucial.
Thin crispy skin is a vital element of Peking duck, with some arguing it is more important than the meat. As one of China’s most important national dishes, it comes wrapped in tradition.
Peking duck is said to have originated in Hangzhou in the 13th century, gaining imperial favour during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) after the capital moved to Peking (modern-day Beijing) in the 15th century.
Techniques were refined, and by the 18th century, it was a national dish, served in high-end restaurants, with establishments such as Bianyifang (founded in 1416) and Quanjude (founded in 1864) developing distinct roasting methods.
