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Lisa Cam

Autumn signals the start of the hairy crab season in Hong Kong and parts of mainland China.
A question that divides hairy crab lovers is: are males or females the most delicious?
When it comes to the flavour of the crabs, seasonality matters a lot. Male crabs hit their peak in the 10th lunar month, when they develop plump, smooth gonads. The 11th lunar month is the female crabs’ time to shine as their roe ripens and becomes firmer.
Four Hong Kong chefs compare male and female hairy crabs further to help us understand what makes each desirable.

Junno Li, executive Chinese chef at The Chinese Library in Hong Kong’s Tai Kwun centre of heritage and culture, says that female crabs are prized for their rich-tasting roe.
“The female crab roe is rich, creamy and has a deep golden colour. The flavour is intense and buttery, making it perfect if you like something more robust,” he says.
“Male crabs, on the other hand, do not have roe; instead, they have white, jellylike reproductive glands that are incredibly silky and delicate on the palate, and the taste is much lighter and more subtle.”
Menex Cheung, executive chef of China Tang in the Landmark in Central, echoes that a key difference between male and female crabs is the richness of the females’ roe.
“Male crabs have creamy [reproductive glands] … while female crabs have yellow crab roe and are known for their rich crab roe aroma,” he says.

Another key difference is the meat texture.
“Male crabs are generally larger in size and therefore have relatively more plump meat in their crab claws and feet,” says Cheung Kin-ming, executive chef of two-Michelin-star Ying Jee Club.
He adds that the meat from both males and females is fresh and sweet. “But the point of tasting crab is always its roe and accessory glands.”
Why do hairy crabs tend to get more attention than other types of seasonal crustaceans? Silas Li, executive chef of Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 in Happy Valley, feels that there is a certain prestige attached to the act of eating hairy crabs.
“It’s the luxury of eating this rare delicacy. The flavour is so intense and the texture is so smooth. There is also a lot of labour involved when you’re eating [them] at a restaurant. It takes the chefs hours to deshell the crabs and turn them into a dish,” he says.

Menex Cheung feels that the female crab roe holds more cultural value. “The crab roe represents abundance and preciousness, as the crab roe is treated as the most delicious and precious part of the crab. Its richness and delicate flavour are the best showcase of Chinese gastronomy,” he says.
Cheung Kin-ming feels it is about seasonality.
“First, this embodies the philosophy of eating within the seasons, and savouring hairy crabs is a way to appreciate the unique richness of autumn,” he says.
“Second, Chinese culinary culture places great emphasis on the texture of ingredients. The powdery and glutinous texture of crab roe and the rich and sticky texture of crab accessory glands offer a unique taste experience that is difficult to match with other ingredients.”

For those new to hairy crab, most chefs recommend starting with the more punchy-flavoured females.
“You can really taste the richness with female crabs,” Silas Li says. “The sticky pastiness of the male may take some getting used to, but the strong flavours of the female are something that stand out.”
However, Menex Cheung suggests first-timers eat male crabs as he feels the flavour of the females could be too strong for the uninitiated.
“I usually recommend male crabs for their plump and rich meat, [which makes it easier for] newcomers to appreciate the crabs’ freshness and creaminess. Female crabs might be too greasy for a first-timer due to their oiliness and richness of crab roe,” he says.

The chefs have different ideas on how to contrast the flavours of male and female hairy crabs in a multi-course set.
“In a multi-course crab menu, I’d design it so the two crabs play different roles,” Junno Li says.
“The male crab’s clean, silky reproductive glands and the female crab’s rich, buttery roe each get their moment, prepared with different techniques to highlight what makes them special.
“You’d have texture contrasts, the thickness of roe against the silkiness of male glands, as well as flavour contrasts, with the richness of female against the fresh sweetness of male. By layering all these contrasts, diners get the full spectrum of what each crab offers.”

Menex Cheung places importance on the order in which the crabs are eaten.
“I suggest having male crabs to begin the meal. The freshness and natural sweetness of crabmeat would be a good beginning of the meal, and enjoying the rich and delicate female crab roe afterwards fully showcases hairy crabs’ distinctive tastes and multifaceted allure,” he says.
Silas Li feels that things might not have to be so polarising.
“There are certain dishes like dumplings and toppings where the female roe is better, and the richness of the male is better used in mains, but I like to mix them together. In the same bite, you can enjoy the best of both male and female crab – the strong flavour of the females and then the rich texture of the male,” he says.

Cheung Kin-ming has a more methodical approach.
“For the appetiser, crab roe from female crabs can be used to make crab roe soup dumplings and other dim sum. Then the crabs can be presented whole and steamed to allow guests to savour the cleanest flavour from both male and female crabs,” he says.
“Then, the roe from male crabs is used to make rice or noodles, utilising its rich and oily qualities to create a memorable experience for the crab feast.
“Finally, the crab shells can be simmered into a delicious soup, blending the flavours of both male and female crabs, providing a perfect ending.”
Whichever you prefer, Junno Li says that hairy crabs are more than just something delicious to eat.
“They represent the essence of the season, the pinnacle of what an ingredient can offer, and a kind of respect for nature’s rhythms.”


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Male vs female hairy crabs: which are tastiest? Hong Kong chefs peel back the differences

Steamed hairy crab at Ying Jee Club. The two-Michelin-star Hong Kong restaurant’s head chef, Cheung Kin-ming, is among those who help us understand the differences between female and male hairy crabs, and which might be best for first-timers. Photo: Ying Jee Club

Junno Li is executive Chinese chef at The Chinese Library. Photo: The Chinese Library

Menex Cheung is executive chef of China Tang. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Silas Li is executive chef of Hong Kong Cuisine 1983. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Cheung Kin-ming is executive chef of Ying Jee Club. Photo: Ying Jee Club

Hairy crab steamed in Huadiao wine and chicken fat on top of noodles at China Tang. Photo: China Tang

Steamed hairy crab at The Chinese Library. Photo: The Chinese Library

A selection of dishes made with hairy crab at Ying Jee Club. Photo: Ying Jee Club

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Peking duck at Mott 32 in Central. Photo: Mott 32

Peking duck at Lung King Heen in Central. Photo: Lung King Heen

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Peking duck at Duddell’s in Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Duddell’s

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Lifestyle

Food & Drink

Top Hong Kong chefs point out the key differences between male and female hairy crabs, which are best for newbies and how they cook them


Top Hong Kong chefs point out the key differences between male and female hairy crabs, which are best for newbies and how they cook them.


Chinese cuisine

Chinese culture

Hong Kong chefs

Male vs female hairy crabs: which are tastiest? Hong Kong chefs peel back the differences

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Top Hong Kong chefs point out the key differences between male and female hairy crabs, which are best for newbies and how they cook them

Top Hong Kong chefs point out the key differences between male and female hairy crabs, which are best for newbies and how they cook them