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‘Best’ tofu fa dessert and French toast: a French-Canadian’s favourite Hong Kong restaurants

Business strategist Jean-Francois Goyette reveals where he goes for noodles, dessert, snacks and a ‘cinematic view of Hong Kong’

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Business strategist Jean-Francois Goyette at ABC Kitchen, one of his favourite restaurants in Hong Kong. He reveals where he he likes to eat in the city and beyond. Photo: Jean-Francois Goyette
Andrew Sun

Jean-Francois Goyette is a French-Canadian business strategist in architecture and design. He spoke to Andrew Sun.

I never really thought about food beyond utility until I studied architecture and urban geography. I came of age right before digital media flattened content, and moved to London to train as an architect at University College London in the 2000s.

There, I was fascinated by how food, space and culture intersected. I then worked as an architectural editor at Phaidon Press, where publisher Emilia Terragni spearheaded a collection of cookbooks with René Redzepi, Ruth Rogers, Massimo Bottura and Ferran Adrià. I became deeply interested in the geographies in which food happens.
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After moving to Hong Kong, my partner, who is very serious about food, further changed my perspective. Through her, I have come to appreciate how important eating is to life here and how much it shapes the city.

There are too many dinner options to name, but one place I always like is ABC Kitchen (Shop CF7, 1/F, Queen Street Cooked Food Market, 38 Des Voeux Road West, Sheung Wan. Tel: 9278 8227).

A busy weekday night at ABC Kitchen in Sheung Wan in 2023. Photo: Sam Evans
A busy weekday night at ABC Kitchen in Sheung Wan in 2023. Photo: Sam Evans
Set in a municipal building’s cooked food centre, it is a unique Hong Kong typology, located between an Indian restaurant and a dumpling shop. Yet it is some of the best continental food I have had. The setting – the plastic chairs, the seafood tanks next door, aunties rolling sticky rice dumplings – makes it a microcosm of Hong Kong spirit.
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