The origins of Hainanese chicken rice and its versions in Singapore, Malaysia and more

Chances are, the Hainanese chicken rice served at your local restaurant is not the real deal. In the same way that champagne must come from Champagne, Hainanese chicken rice must technically be made with Wenchang chicken from Hainan, an island province of China in the South China Sea. These birds are small, free-range and famous for being fed a diet of fallen banyan seeds, coconut pulp and peanut bran. The breed was shaped by the region’s natural environment, which gives the meat natural sweetness and aromatics. The Wenchang chicken dish, the forerunner of Hainanese chicken rice, began as a humble survival meal for labourers who carried it in baskets. It is believed to have travelled from Hainan to the Chinese mainland during the early Ming dynasty (1368-1644). The dish gained popularity across Southern Asia as Hainan natives emigrated to neighbouring countries during the 19th century. The original version of the dish is simple compared with its Southeast Asian counterparts. Hainanese households would use old hens that could no longer lay eggs, while the chicken fat was used to cook the accompanying broth and rice. Wenchang chicken became scarce during political upheaval in China in the mid-20th century, but that did not stop other cultures from making their own iterations of the dish. Malaysia and Singapore both claim to be the originators of Hainanese chicken rice, which typically incorporates Cantonese cooking techniques, has rice cooked in potent broths and comes with accompanying sauces. It is a dispute that has been going on since the latter became independent in 1965. But to view the dish through this lens is to ignore the bigger picture. The story of Hainanese chicken rice is about the Chinese diaspora and how a dish can quietly evolve into distinct regional iterations. From the bustling streets of Bangkok to the colonial shophouses of Hanoi, the dish has been adapted by different cultures, using local ingredients to cater to local tastes. While Hong Kong did not invent the dish, it remains popular in the city. Grand Hyatt Hong Kong is known for its Hainanese chicken rice. Recently, the hotel made a divisive version of the dish: chicken rice cake topped with three-yellow chicken and chilli for garnish. For the hotel’s chef, Ip Ka-ki, the reason many different versions of Hainanese chicken rice are popular in the city is due to its residents’ openness. “Hongkongers are not picky – every version that exists here finds its audience,” Ip says. “What strikes me about diners here the most is their lack of culinary prejudice. There’s no hierarchy. It is about an authentic appreciation for craftsmanship, wherever it comes from.” Here is how the dish has evolved across Asia. Singapore The Singaporean variation is probably the first that comes to mind when one thinks of Hainanese chicken rice. The standard in the city state is the “poached” version, for which the chicken is cooked and then submerged in an ice bath to achieve a gelatinous skin in a technique borrowed from Cantonese cuisine. The rice is cooked in a potent broth of chicken stock and fat, pandan leaves, garlic, and sometimes lemongrass. The dish is typically served with chilli sauce made from a blend of red chillies, garlic, ginger and calamansi lime; finely minced ginger spring onion paste; sweet dark soy sauce; and some cucumber on the side. Malaysia The most prevalent version of the dish found in Malaysia – especially in the cities of Malacca and Seremban – comes with chicken rice balls. Fragrant rice is rolled into tight, golf-ball-sized spheres. This method is believed to have originated from Hainan as a way to keep the rice warm for fishermen. Eating the chicken with hor fun – flat rice noodles – instead of rice, or replacing poached with roasted chicken, are popular options. Another variation originates from Ipoh in northwestern Malaysia, where the dish is served with a massive side of bean sprouts. The sprouts, which are made fat, crunchy and short using the local limestone-rich water, are blanched and then served with a dash of soy sauce and pepper. Thailand The Thai version of the dish, known as khao man gai, is very different. For this stripped-down version, a pungent, fermented soybean paste blended with garlic, ginger and bird’s eye chillies replaces the chilli sauce used in other versions. In true Thai style, the chicken is served with ingredients such as blood tofu, liver, gizzard and heart. Crucially, the Thai version is rarely served with cucumber garnishes; instead, it is often accompanied by a bowl of clear tom-yum-like soup. In recent years, khao man gai tod – a deep-fried version of the dish in which the meat has a crunchy, golden exterior – has become popular in Bangkok. Vietnam Com ga Hoi An, which is prevalent in Ho Chi Minh City and in the area around Hoi An in central Vietnam, takes on a lightness typical of Vietnamese cuisine. The dish often features hand-shredded chicken piled atop a bed of rice, which is tinged yellow by turmeric. The dish is distinctive in its inclusion of fresh herbs. While the Singaporean and Malaysian versions are served with a few slices of cucumber, the Vietnamese one explodes with mint, coriander, shredded green mango and pickled carrots. Com ga Hoi An is usually accompanied by a tangy fish-sauce-based dip called nuoc cham and shredded papaya. Hainan The original version of the dish is very simple. The chicken is served bone-in, often accompanied by a simple dipping sauce made of ginger, garlic and coriander. It is rarely served with the sweet dark soy or chilli sauce that comes with other countries’ versions. The chicken in the Hainanese version is fibrous, firm and chewy compared with the more Southeast Asian style of the dish, in which the chicken is more tender. Another difference is in the broth, to which pork bone is sometimes added to enhance the flavour.

The origins of Hainanese chicken rice and its versions in Singapore, Malaysia and more

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}With roots in Hainan’s Wenchang chicken, Hainanese chicken rice shows how a dish can quietly evolve into distinct regional iterations

With roots in Hainan’s Wenchang chicken, Hainanese chicken rice shows how a dish can quietly evolve into distinct regional iterations