I am disappointed with the Hong Kong dining scene. Food has always been a prominent feature in the city's culture. The best ingredients from around the globe arrive fresh here, thanks to an efficient supply chain and no duty on imports. Hongkongers spend lavishly on dining for both personal pleasure and corporate entertaining.
But in my opinion, many restaurants serve mediocre food that's poor value for money. Compare Hong Kong with New York, Tokyo, Milan, or London; in those cities, for HK$1,000, you have every chance of being served a memorable meal, wine included. It will be a meal where each dish is made with expertise, care, passion, originality and quality ingredients. It will be food that strives hard to be exceptional.
Spend HK$1,000 in Hong Kong, and, in my experience, the chances are you will be served an unremarkable dish from any of the world's cuisines. More money is spent on how the restaurant looks than on its food, or on the people who prepare and serve it.
Then there is the big killer: rent. How can you get good food when rents take up to 15 per cent of revenues, and chefs and staff are unmotivated by low salaries and the pressure of understaffing?
As in any financial investment, the shareholders' goal is to get back as much money as possible in the shortest amount of time. But because food is so important, it cannot only be a financial investment. There will always be food lovers who want to set up a small place to cook or bake. It's not always about the money.
I am convinced that many restaurants, such as those in Italy and Japan, are good because it's the owner who cooks the food. These restaurants are family-owned small businesses, where a passion for cooking and a desire for a good reputation are what matter most.