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Italy’s famous chess game with human pieces, the centrepiece of a 600-person, 3-hour show, returns after Covid-enforced cancellation

  • Every two years, townspeople in Marostica, Italy, stage a game of human chess set within a vast historical re-enactment
  • A visit to witness the spectacle can be a great opportunity to discover some of the secrets of the Veneto region

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Townsfolk take part in La Partita di Scacchi, which involves a game of chess using human pieces, in Marostica, Italy, in September 2022. Photo: John Brunton
John Brunton

Inside the ancient medieval walls that surround the bustling Italian hill town of Marostica, the sun is beginning to set on a scene that takes place in September once every two years.

This month’s event is extra special because the Covid-19 pandemic has meant it has been four long years since these proud citizens were able to stage their legendary La Partita di Scacchi.

A chess game like no other, La Partita is acted out by real people, who play the 32 pieces.

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The game is the centrepiece in a production that lasts almost three hours and involves a cast of 600 locals who forget their normal lives for a few days to become jugglers, jesters and fire eaters, trumpeters and drummers, a harlequin and court jester, troops of archers, horsemen and pike-wielding soldiers, dancers and flamboyant twirling flag-throwers, nobility, peasants, and priests.

The giant chess board in Marostica. Photo: John Brunton
The giant chess board in Marostica. Photo: John Brunton

Although only 14,000 people live here today, this once important outpost of the Serene Republic of Venice is marked by three imposing castles.

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