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Your ultimate guide to today’s deodorants, from scent-free to sprays and sticks

STORYCarolina Malis
Evolvetogether natural deodorant. Photo: Handout
Evolvetogether natural deodorant. Photo: Handout
Beauty

From AKT’s balm-to-powder formula to Aesop’s botanical sticks and Fussy’s refillable applicators, here’s how to choose what works best

For something that stands unassumingly on a shelf in all our bathrooms, deodorant carries a surprising weight of responsibility. One little tube, expected to keep us fresh through deadlines, workouts, first dates, stress sweats and surprise heatwaves, all in a single swipe. And yet, for all that pressure, it’s usually one of the most taken-for-granted steps in our beauty routine.

We use it daily, religiously even, but somehow it’s still a bit of a mystery. Does it stop sweat? Just mask the smell? Is aluminium the villain or the hero? And now, with dozens of options lining shelves, deodorant is no longer just a hygiene staple, but a category all on its own. But even with all the hype, for many of us, it still feels like a guessing game.
Sol de Janeiro deodorant. Photo: Handout
Sol de Janeiro deodorant. Photo: Handout
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To start making sense of it all, it helps to understand what’s really going on under your arms. “Sweating is normal,” explains Dr David Johnson, a dermatologist and co-founder of light therapy company RedliteX. “Your body contains sweat glands known as eccrine glands, primarily in the underarm area. Sweat is odourless by nature, but when it combines with bacteria on the skin, odour comes into play.”

It’s this sweat-meets-bacteria reaction that often blurs the line between what we expect from a deodorant and what it’s designed to do. Part of that confusion comes from a distinction we never learned to care about: deodorant and antiperspirant are not the same thing. They’re often shelved together, marketed interchangeably and tossed into carts without much thought, but the difference between them matters. “Deodorants kill bacteria to eliminate the odour. Antiperspirants clog the pores using materials such as salts of aluminium. These create blocks within your body’s sweat ducts to prevent the moisture,” says Johnson.

Fussy deodorants. Photo: Handout
Fussy deodorants. Photo: Handout

In theory, it’s a win-win: one keeps you dry, the other keeps you fresh. But most of us don’t know which one we’re using, or what our underarms actually need. And once you’re in the deodorant aisle, it only gets more confusing with terms like “aluminium-free”, “pH-balanced” and “microbiome-friendly”, which sound promising but whose meanings are rarely straightforward.

And even if you’ve cracked the labels, there’s the choice of stick or spray. Sprays go on dry and can cover a wide area fast. They’re easy to reapply too, but often wear off sooner – especially if you’re active – and many rely on alcohol to dry quickly, which can be harsh on sensitive skin. Solid bars and balms may take a few extra seconds to apply, but offer more precise coverage, longer-lasting odour control and rich, skincare-like textures packed with nourishing ingredients. For many, that little extra effort is worth it: more control, fewer chances of irritation and a formula that sticks around for longer.

Sweating makes your body cooler and keeps you free from toxins. It doesn’t have to be eliminated entirely
Dr David Johnson, RedLiteX

All these choices have made room for the deodorant boom we’re in now. Concern in some quarters about aluminium has led to natural formulas that promise to be kinder on the body. For some, it was a win: finally, a product that aligned with their values or skin needs, but for others, it raised more questions. People expected these products to work like antiperspirants – no sweat, no smell, no hassle – and when they didn’t, it left many wondering if they worked at all. That mismatch in expectations is a big reason why natural formulas still get a bad rap, even though they’re playing by different rules.

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