Style Edit: Max Mara is inspired by rococo, and Sportmax by restoration, for spring/summer 2026
The labels, which are both part of the Max Mara Fashion Group, presented their collections at Milan Fashion Week this month
Max Mara and Sportmax each explore lightness and femininity in their spring/summer 2026 collections – albeit with divergent sources of inspiration and contrasting approaches to detailing. While Max Mara delves into the opulence and rebellious spirit of rococo, Sportmax channels a contemporary fluidity grounded in urban practicality and outward motion.
Whimsical elegance
Drawing inspiration from rococo and that era’s queenly muse and champion, Madame de Pompadour, Max Mara’s Rococo Modern line reimagines 18th century aesthetics through a modern prism. The collection is anchored in contrasts, revealing sparse, structured silhouettes that occasionally break into grand flourishes.
A trench coat reveals meticulously folded shoulder embellishments that are reminiscent of gilded foliage or bird plumage, while pencil skirts feature organza crests suggestive of regal aquatic creatures. The use of organza extends to skirts composed of hundreds of cut and folded pieces, conjuring the petals of an exotic bloom or the fronds of an anemone.
The palette is ethereal and muted, channelling the impalpable tones so beloved by Madame de Pompadour herself. Black elastic belts and harnesslike straps provide a counterpoint to airy fabrics and whimsical shapes, while impeccably tailored jackets paired with low-slung trousers ground the line firmly in the present. This dialogue between playful elegance and structural precision reflects rococo’s spirit of ultimate individualism, likened by author Novala Takemoto to the rebellious energy of punk rock and anarchism.
Fluid architecture
