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Milan Fashion Week 2026: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi debut, and Diesel and Jil Sander’s runways

STORYVincenzo La Torre
The Fendi show marked the debut of newly appointed creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. Photo: AFP
The Fendi show marked the debut of newly appointed creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. Photo: AFP
Milan Fashion Week

Chiuri – previously at Valentino and Dior – made a stellar debut with Fendi, while Diesel’s Instagrammable runway turned heads

The fall/winter 2026 fashion shows are under way in Milan, where Italian powerhouse labels such as Gucci and Prada are based and showcase their ranges every season. They vie for attention with smaller brands and accessory labels that focus on leather goods and shoes.

Here are three highlights from the first two days of shows.

One of the biggest designer debuts this season was at Fendi. It’s a new era at the house. For the first time in the brand’s storied history – it celebrated its 100th anniversary last year – no member of the founding family is involved in the label in any creative capacity.

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While the late Karl Lagerfeld and more recently Kim Jones have designed womenswear for the brand, they both worked alongside the Fendi sisters (Lagerfeld) and Silvia Venturini Fendi (both Lagerfeld and Jones).

The predominantly monochrome line-up at Fendi. Photo: AFP
The predominantly monochrome line-up at Fendi. Photo: AFP

After Jones left in 2024, Silvia Venturini Fendi – who pretty much grew up in the Fendi ateliers and was behind some of the brand’s most popular bags – designed all collections for a few seasons.

Late last year, she was replaced by Maria Grazia Chiuri, who worked at Fendi back in the 1990s before moving to another Roman house, Valentino, rising to the role of co-creative director. In 2016, she moved to Paris to join French couture house Dior.

Under Chiuri, who is known for her commercial sensibility and merchandising prowess, Dior experienced massive growth, greatly expanding its accessory business and delivering ready-to-wear collections that expanded its reach to a broader audience.

Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri takes her bow at Fendi. Photo: AFP
Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri takes her bow at Fendi. Photo: AFP

The powers that be at LVMH, which owns both Dior and Fendi, are clearly betting on Chiuri to work her magic at Fendi this time around.

Held at the label’s Milan showroom, the show was a big departure from the fun and whimsical aesthetic long associated with Fendi.

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