Signature leathers and the luxury brands that shaped them, from Louis Vuitton to Chanel

Houses including Hermès, Prada and Bottega Veneta have taken to producing their own unique leathers, each perfected to suit a particular bag
With a luxe feel yet also durable, this functional material has long been prized for its beauty and versatility, making it the perfect foundation for a range of items from luggage to small goods and accessories.

“The choice of leather defines a brand’s quality and capacity to stand the test of time,” explains Morgane Halimi, global head of handbags and fashion at Sotheby’s. “Apart from quality, a brand will also create a signature leather that will make it recognisable from others.”
While selecting the right raw materials is critical, the real transformation happens in the ateliers, where artisans draw on decades of expertise to experiment and create new fabrications and textures. The result is a range of leathers that are not just unique and aesthetically beautiful, but that showcase innovative techniques and unbridled creativity.

“Leather is just a flat material without a craftsman – they are the real masters who bring it to life and shape it,” adds Halimi. “The finishing will impact [the final look]. For instance, shiny or precious [leather], which is often better for night looks, versus matte for a more contemporary look. The knowledge of the craftsman and their technique are key to its value.”
Today, various luxury maisons have become as well known for their leathers as for their finished products. Many of these leathers remain exclusive to each house and have gone on to become signatures. Some are even reserved for one-of-a-kind items and collectors, making them still more alluring. Here is a guide to a few of the most covetable.