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Signature leathers and the luxury brands that shaped them, from Louis Vuitton to Chanel

STORYDivia Harilela
Leather has been a key component in Hermès’ creations since the maison was founded in 1837. Photo: Handout
Leather has been a key component in Hermès’ creations since the maison was founded in 1837. Photo: Handout
How luxury is made

Houses including Hermès, Prada and Bottega Veneta have taken to producing their own unique leathers, each perfected to suit a particular bag

Leather has always played a starring role in the history of luxury brands, from Hermès’ beginnings as a saddle maker, to Prada’s first collection of leather handbags launched in 1913.

With a luxe feel yet also durable, this functional material has long been prized for its beauty and versatility, making it the perfect foundation for a range of items from luggage to small goods and accessories.

While leather goods are available across various price points, a small group of luxury brands have taken this humble material and transformed it into an enduring symbol of artistry, heritage and craftsmanship.
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Putting the finishing touches to a Bottega Veneta leather bag. Photo: Handout
Putting the finishing touches to a Bottega Veneta leather bag. Photo: Handout

“The choice of leather defines a brand’s quality and capacity to stand the test of time,” explains Morgane Halimi, global head of handbags and fashion at Sotheby’s. “Apart from quality, a brand will also create a signature leather that will make it recognisable from others.”

Though leather can be made from any animal hide or skin, cow leather is easily the most ubiquitous. According to Halimi, the majority of luxury brands source their skins from Europe – specifically Italy and France.

While selecting the right raw materials is critical, the real transformation happens in the ateliers, where artisans draw on decades of expertise to experiment and create new fabrications and textures. The result is a range of leathers that are not just unique and aesthetically beautiful, but that showcase innovative techniques and unbridled creativity.

Fine craftsmanship in progress to create a Chanel bag in Caviar leather. Photo: Handout
Fine craftsmanship in progress to create a Chanel bag in Caviar leather. Photo: Handout

“Leather is just a flat material without a craftsman – they are the real masters who bring it to life and shape it,” adds Halimi. “The finishing will impact [the final look]. For instance, shiny or precious [leather], which is often better for night looks, versus matte for a more contemporary look. The knowledge of the craftsman and their technique are key to its value.”

Today, various luxury maisons have become as well known for their leathers as for their finished products. Many of these leathers remain exclusive to each house and have gone on to become signatures. Some are even reserved for one-of-a-kind items and collectors, making them still more alluring. Here is a guide to a few of the most covetable.

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