How old-school sports brands are making a fashionable comeback, from Reebok to Fila and Kappa
Italian labels Sergio Tacchini and Ellesse, France’s Le Coq Sportif and Britain’s Gola have all found a new fan base interested in their retro appeal
Once a fixture of tennis courts and 1980s street style, the Italian label has re-emerged as part of a broader revival. Sportswear names that slipped from view are being rediscovered, their retro, preppy edge striking a chord with a new generation eager for heritage brands that get to feel fresh again.
Tacchini’s own story helps explain the pull of these revivals. Founded in Piedmont in 1966 by the former tennis pro of the same name, the brand disrupted the sport’s all-white tradition with bold colours and elegant fabrics, before expanding into golf, sailing and leisurewear. Its tracksuits became style markers in the 80s and 90s, blending Italian tailoring with athletic cool. Though the label filed for bankruptcy in 2007 and has seen several changes in ownership since then, it has been quietly regaining visibility – with Davidson’s red carpet choice underlining how Tacchini’s retro silhouettes are rediscovering relevance.
Tacchini isn’t alone in its return to the spotlight. Another label that was founded in Italy – Fila – followed a similar path, beginning in Biella in 1911 as a knitwear business before evolving into a leading sportswear brand. By 1973 its White Line tennis collection had broken from the sport’s strict codes with flashes of navy and red. Swedish champion Björn Borg’s run of Wimbledon titles in Fila cemented the brand’s reputation as a style disrupter, and it later found a foothold in basketball. Grant Hill’s signature trainers of the mid-1990s, especially the Grant Hill 2 memorably worn by Tupac, became defining trainers of the era, worn as much on city streets as on the basketball court. Fila’s graphic logos and oversized silhouettes also became part of hip-hop’s uniform, spotted in music videos and on stage, keeping the brand’s relevance alive.
Like in Italy, in France heritage has its own cachet. Founded in 1882, Le Coq Sportif is one of the oldest names in sportswear, its rooster logo long a symbol of national pride. It appeared on Tour de France jerseys and French football kits throughout most of the 20th century, before fading from view in the 1990s. Over the years, tennis legends Arthur Ashe and Justine Henin – along with golfers such as Yang Yong-eun, the first Asian man to win one of the sport’s major championships – wore the brand. Today, Le Coq Sportif is linked to athletes including Lucas Pouille and Yannick Noah, while actor and model Luka Sabbat has given it fashion clout on the street style circuit. The label’s return has come through retro releases and renewed interest in its tracksuits and trainers, with its deep roots in cycling and unmistakable Gallic identity giving it a distinct appeal in today’s heritage revival.