The biggest high jewellery drops of 2025: from Louis Vuitton’s Virtuosity and Chanel’s Reach for the Stars, to Cartier’s En Équilibre and Tiffany & Co.’s Sea of Wonder
Anne Hathaway debuted the showstopping 123-carat sapphire Bulgari Polychroma Cosmic Vault necklace, while Emilia Clarke turned heads in Chaumet’s Wild Rose necklace, with its 8.23-carat yellow diamond
High jewellery season is, to be sure, the most exhilarating romp through the world’s most glamorous and exotic locations as the top maisons set out to woo their top clients. With good reason too. In a luxury slump, jewellery – and especially high jewellery – remains a bright (and glittering) spot. According to research released by global consultancy Bain as well as the Altagamma Foundation, an association of Italian luxury brands, luxury spending as a whole declined by 1 to 3 per cent in 2024. Jewellery, however, grew by up to 2 per cent, making it the most resilient core luxury category. High jewellery – the pinnacle of craftsmanship and exceptional gemstones – performed particularly well.
This year’s high jewellery collections – from the likes of Cartier, Chaumet, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton and Chanel – transported clients to desirable locales, from Stockholm to Marbella. Inspirations behind the collections took to the stars and the sea, to the ephemeral quality of nature and philosophies of balance. Exceptional gemstones, a given in high jewellery, were particularly on show, from showstopping sapphires at Bulgari, to extraordinary electric Tiffany Blue cuprian tourmalines. Virtuoso techniques shone too, as seen in carved moonstones at Tiffany & Co., transformable pieces at Chaumet, and haute horology at Bulgari. Here are just a few highlights of a spectacular season.
Nature in full bloom
As always, the beauty of nature in motion was a key source of inspiration. Chaumet hosted guests in Marbella, Spain, in June to celebrate its Jewels by Nature collection. A botanical take on nature has long influenced the storied maison. Indeed, founder Marie-Étienne Nitot described himself as a “jeweller-naturalist”, so passionate was he about plants. Chaumet’s take on nature is realistic and organic, and could be seen in pieces worn by VIP guests such as Game of Thrones’ Emilia Clarke, who wore the Wild Rose transformable necklace in white gold, set with an 8.23-carat emerald-cut yellow diamond.
Nature is also at the heart of De Beers’ latest collection – its largest yet. While Forces of Nature was launched last year, chapter two debuted in June. The landscape and animals of southern Africa – a region close to the maison’s heart – are at the centre of the collection. Diamonds of all shapes, cuts and hues, both polished and rough, are celebrated, including some from the Natural Works of Art collection – the rarest in the house’s possession.
Checks and balances
Cartier eschewed more typically luxurious – and sunnier – choices for a high jewellery event in May by whisking guests off to moody Stockholm.
“We chose Stockholm not for the weather, but we do believe this city embodies the perfect balance between tradition and innovation, urban life and nature, and also comfort and durability,” he said.
The choice of location was apt for a 113-piece collection that explores the French maison’s ideas of balance in jewellery – in terms of shape, colour and composition. Many pieces toy with both the figurative and the abstract. One such highlight – and an addition to Cartier’s treasured bestiary – is the Tsagaan snow leopard necklace in white gold, white diamonds and onyx.