Why rough, uncut gemstones are feted for their raw beauty

This year, the British jeweller celebrates the 20th anniversary of its Talisman collection – a range that pays tribute to the “untamed beauty” of rough diamonds. Originally launched in 2005, it was the first luxury jewellery collection to pair rough and polished diamonds, challenging traditional notions of preciousness. Once prized as symbols of power and protection, rough gemstones are now being reimagined by the maison as modern, stylish totems.

Each piece in the range is handcrafted using a revived Renaissance technique known as serti poinçon, in which rough diamonds are embedded in hand-hammered gold, enhancing their natural texture and glow. As for the new anniversary pieces, they include a high jewellery suite combining rough yellow and round-brilliant white diamonds in chandelier earrings, a knife-edge tennis bracelet and necklace, and a trio ring, as well as a limited-edition Talisman locket designed to hide messages and mementoes in a secret compartment.

For jewellers working independently, rough stones offer rich creative potential. Sicilian designer Massimo Izzo, who has championed uncut stones through his Cut not Cut collection, finds them more emotionally resonant than traditional cuts. “The appeal of rough stones lies in their raw, untamed beauty,” he says. “They are a direct reflection of nature’s imperfections, which I believe hold the most genuine charm.” When designing jewellery, the creative process begins not with a sketch, but with the stone itself, says Izzo. “Rough stones truly dictate the creative process, more than the other way around … it’s about embracing limitations and finding beauty in what’s imperfect.”