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Jewellery

Richemont’s Van Cleef & Arpels CEO Catherine Rénier on timelessness and sustainable growth – interview

STORYVincenzo La Torre
Van Cleef & Arpels CEO Catherine Rénier at Dumfries House in Scotland. Photo: Handout
Van Cleef & Arpels CEO Catherine Rénier at Dumfries House in Scotland. Photo: Handout
Van Cleef & Arpels

As Van Cleef & Arpels adds new blooms to its collections, we speak to CEO Catherine Rénier on the brand’s success so far – and plans for the future

It’s been almost two years since Catherine Rénier was appointed CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels after a successful stint as CEO at watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre. She couldn’t have joined at a better time for the jewellery maison.

Established in 1906 in Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the most respected names in high jewellery – but don’t let its long history fool you. Over the years, the prestigious house has maintained its relevance among younger generations thanks to the success of its fine jewellery lines – chief among them the bestselling Alhambra, which boasts fans ranging from Middle Eastern princesses and New York socialites to NBA players and hip-hop artists.
If recent results from parent company Richemont are any indication, the popularity of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra and other lines such as Perlée has been the main contributor to the growth of the jewellery category within the group.
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Van Cleef & Arpels’ recently launched Flowerlace collection. Photo: Handout
Van Cleef & Arpels’ recently launched Flowerlace collection. Photo: Handout

This is in spite of the fact that Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the only high-end labels to shun celebrity ambassadors and influencers, instead promoting true exclusivity through initiatives that celebrate genuine savoir faire and the pure appeal of its creations.

The house, however, is not resting on its laurels. Earlier this year, it launched two fine jewellery lines – Flowerlace and Fleurs d’Hawaï – both inspired by the floral motifs that have always been at the heart of its visual vocabulary.

The collections debuted at the Scottish estate Dumfries House, where the Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Garden acted as an apt backdrop for the unveiling of the ranges.

As Rénier explained in an interview in Scotland, the group always thinks long term, even if doing so can slow down growth, which is why you can expect her to stay the course, both when it comes to the brand’s celebrity strategy and its focus on highlighting craftsmanship and excellence.

At the Scotland event, for instance, a series of artisans – from lapidaries to stone setters – showcased some of the steps involved in making the house’s creations, which is nothing new in the world of luxury, but certainly more refreshing and even more radical than taking snapshots of a “brand ambassador” who often knows very little about the pieces they are wearing.

Van Cleef & Arpels Fleurs d’Hawaï secret watch. Photo: Handout
Van Cleef & Arpels Fleurs d’Hawaï secret watch. Photo: Handout
“This is a very important aspect of our commitment at the maison, on many levels,” said Rénier. “One is about educating the public on this know-how. For that, we have L’École [School of Jewelry Arts], supported by Van Cleef & Arpels – and we’re so grateful. But we also do more in France, where we have our workshops, with initiatives to [spread] knowledge about these jobs. What is it like to be a polisher? What is it like to be a jeweller?”
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