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Jewellery

How Asian culture and mindfulness are reshaping luxury jewellery design

STORYPriya Raj
Jeweller Choo Yilin’s pieces are about identity. Photo: Handout
Jeweller Choo Yilin’s pieces are about identity. Photo: Handout
Jewellery

Local brands fuse traditional Chinese motifs with a modern aesthetic, while Boucheron takes inspiration from Japanese art and philosophy

There have been whispers in the world of luxury that wellness and spirituality will be the industry’s next guiding themes. While traditionalists in Europe might still be making up their minds about this marriage, it’s already integral in Asia.

“In Chinese culture, the idea of harmony between body and mind [is] deeply valued. People believe that natural materials carry energy and vitality from the Earth, helping restore calm and balance,” explains Sissi Xu, managing director, Greater China, at the Natural Diamond Council.
Composition No 4 transformable jewellery suite from Boucheron’s Impermanence collection. Photo: Handout
Composition No 4 transformable jewellery suite from Boucheron’s Impermanence collection. Photo: Handout
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The convergence of jewellery and spirituality is deeply embedded in Asian culture. In China, for example, jade is believed to have shielding properties, while in the talismanic Navaratna jewellery of India, each stone has astrological significance.

Jeweller Yilin Choo crafts exquisite heirloom pieces from jade for her eponymous brand Choo Yilin. “Across many Asian cultures, jade was as much about spirituality as it was about relationships,” she says. “Pieces were gifted at weddings, passed down through families. They carried stories about the women who wore them.”

Mindfulness, in essence, is the practice of being aware of and showing gratitude for our surroundings. “It’s [the] quiet strength and timeless beauty that make natural diamonds resonate with the modern pursuit of wellness and inner balance,” Xu says. And the idea appears to be gaining importance in fine and high jewellery collections across continents, whether through the material, the design or the story behind each piece.

Choo Yilin Hydrangea Bangle. Photo: Handout
Choo Yilin Hydrangea Bangle. Photo: Handout
One recent example that showcases this connection is the Impermanence collection from storied maison Boucheron’s Carte Blanche haute joaillerie range, which is inspired by the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi (appreciating imperfection) and the art of ikebana (flower arrangement). Boucheron is candid about its intent, stating that “the collection invites a deeper contemplation of our natural world”. Incorporating contrasting materials, the pieces represent the disappearing beauty of nature and our own connection to it.

Xu believes that “for many modern Chinese consumers, jewellery has become part of a mindful lifestyle – something that connects them with their inner selves”. She adds, “A natural diamond, formed over billions of years, represents patience, endurance and authenticity – qualities that bring a sense of grounding and emotional reassurance.”

Perhaps the biggest natural diamond advocate of all, De Beers explored this exact theme in its recently launched campaign, which promotes “desert diamonds”. The natural colouring of these stones evokes rarity and a connection to nature. Not only are these beautiful pieces of jewellery, they’re reminders of our significance – and insignificance – in the world.

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