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Jewellery

The glittering legacy of London’s goldsmiths: from Hatton Garden to Taylor Swift’s earrings

STORYDivia Harilela
Cece Jewellery’s Doll House is inspired by its Triptych Collection. Photo: Handout
Cece Jewellery’s Doll House is inspired by its Triptych Collection. Photo: Handout
Jewellery

Margot Robbie is just one A-list fan of the work being done by innovative British artisans blending tradition and modernity in gold design

For over a century, Hatton Garden has been a globally renowned jewellery hub, but London’s long relationship with goldsmithing thrives well beyond this famed district. Ever since the establishment in 1327 of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths – an organisation that supports the UK’s metalsmiths and promotes their craft – the city has attracted young creatives and craftspeople looking to carve their own niche.

“London has always been a place where craft, commerce and culture meet. Goldsmithing flourished because it offers all three – skilled workshops, discerning patrons and a trading hub that connected Britain to global markets,” explains Charlie Betts, managing director and co-founder of SMO Gold.

Shola Branson Cartouche Drop Earrings. Photo: Handout
Shola Branson Cartouche Drop Earrings. Photo: Handout
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For years, gold has remained the top metal of choice for jewellers, thanks to its unique combination of permanence and practicality and its ability to tell a story. Gold can be reworked, repaired, resized and recycled without losing its essential character. And despite prices reaching record highs recently, its promise of longevity beyond generations has made it even more alluring for creatives and customers alike.

“This ‘future heirloom’ quality of gold resonates strongly for those who are looking for objects that matter,” explains Betts. “Customers increasingly want to know not only how a piece looks, but where the metal came from and what values sit behind it. That focus on provenance and transparency has created a new creative energy around gold. It isn’t just a precious material, it’s a chance to do precious work responsibly.”

Cece Jewellery Devil is in the Detail ring. Photo: Handout
Cece Jewellery Devil is in the Detail ring. Photo: Handout

Today, London offers a comprehensive ecosystem that jewellers can leverage – from stone dealers, setters, polishers and casters to engravers – making it a prime spot for talent. There’s also a strong living apprenticeship culture where knowledge is still passed from bench to bench, allowing creatives to learn the fundamentals properly before expressing them through their own modern lens.

The local community also offers countless resources, such as award-winning social enterprise Cockpit Studios, which houses more than 175 independent artists, designers and creative businesses. Meanwhile, initiatives like the iconic Goldsmiths’ Fair continue to bring together the country’s best contemporary jewellers and silversmiths every year.

Jo Hayes Ward stackable rings. Photo: Handout
Jo Hayes Ward stackable rings. Photo: Handout

This strong network of support has in turn encouraged the next generation of makers to push boundaries across all areas of innovation, where traditional techniques are combined with cutting-edge digital advancements.

“There’s innovation in how jewellers think about materials alongside gold: unexpected pairings with ceramics, unusual stones, or mixed metals, along with a growing interest in explaining the story of the piece, including the origin of the gold, as part of the design narrative,” says Betts. “In other words, the innovation isn’t only technical; it’s conceptual and values-led too.”

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