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Jewellery

Floral jewellery is blooming, from Chanel and Dior to Asian ateliers

STORYFrancesca Fearon
Florals continue to reign supreme in jewellery design, as seen in this earring from the Dior fall/winter 2026 collection. Photo: Handout
Florals continue to reign supreme in jewellery design, as seen in this earring from the Dior fall/winter 2026 collection. Photo: Handout
High Jewellery

Large-scale floral designs are flourishing in high jewellery, from the world’s biggest maisons, and Asian masters like Anna Hu and Michelle Ong

Flowers have been blooming all over the catwalks in their voluminous glory for the past couple of seasons and are a reminder that in jewellery, floral designs still reign supreme.

For his haute couture spring/summer 2026 show in January, Jonathan Anderson referenced Christian Dior’s personal passion for flowers and gardens with bunches of freshly gathered cyclamen gifted to him by former creative director John Galliano. The gesture was acknowledged in prints and floral appliqués on dresses as well as through ultra-feminine flowered earmuffs and lacquered brass sculpted silk flowers, worn as trailing ear jewels in the fashion show. The concept was repeated in the fall/winter 2026 collection shown in March, but this time Anderson created giant resin water lily earrings and brooches, inspired by the water lilies in the Jardin des Tuileries.
Anna Hu Orchid Minuet earrings. Photo: Handout
Anna Hu Orchid Minuet earrings. Photo: Handout
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Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, meanwhile, added fluffy chrysanthemum earrings and enlarged corsages to his ready-to-wear spring/summer collection, and Haider Ackermann produced large pansy corsages for Tom Ford to add colour to tailoring. More recently, Miuccia Prada created cascades of flowers as earrings for her Miu Miu fall/winter collection.

The perfumed fragrance and femininity of the flower appear to have captured the zeitgeist. “I noticed florals had caught the imagination of collectors and clients at TEFAF – the big fine art and antiques fair in Maastricht, in March – with people opting for large-scale flower-inspired designs,” says London-based Brazilian jeweller Fernando Jorge. His personal offering to the trend is his mother-of-pearl and diamond Satellite earrings with their abstract flower shape.

Miu Miu fall/winter 2026. Photo: Handout
Miu Miu fall/winter 2026. Photo: Handout

On a scale that echoes the large blooms on the Dior catwalk come the exuberant Multi-Clover earrings from fellow Londoner Glenn Spiro. These are 11cm in length and feature a cascade of lucky four-leaf clover motifs in verdant green emeralds and tsavorites, set on titanium for lightness. These really live up to the catwalk trend for going big. They are part of a series that includes a pretty ruby, pink sapphire and diamond version, and a yellow and orange sapphire and diamond pair – all of them show-stoppers.

Flora is a cherished source of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels, frequently appearing in high jewellery and most recently the Flowerlace collection. In yellow gold and diamonds, large petals are silhouetted against fingers and ears with airy gracefulness – a pretty nod to the trend for scale. Appropriately, the collection was unveiled last summer in the gardens of King Charles’ Dumfries House in Scotland, underlining the Paris maison’s long-term support for the King’s Foundation.
Michelle Ong Helleborus earrings. Photo: Handout
Michelle Ong Helleborus earrings. Photo: Handout

The camellia is the signature flower of Chanel, but more than that, it is a declaration of style. A whole atelier at the maison’s embroiderer Lemarié in Paris is dedicated to making the pretty white silk flowers, but the motif also blooms in sizes from large to small in diamond-set high jewellery, as well as fine jewellery and costume collections.

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