Peter Som – whose devotees include Scarlett Johansson and Michelle Obama – is branching out from fashion to food, sharing favourite recipes in his first cookbook, Family Style
The New York designer was inspired by his Chinese grandma’s notebook of recipes; his cookbook presents dishes marrying big flavours with a pinch of fashion flair, delivered with his trademark humour
“I would definitely not call it a pivot,” Som clarifies. “I haven’t left anything behind – I still do clothing with Rent the Runway; I have a few deals and projects coming up.” But cooking, as it turns out, was part of Som’s life, long before fashion entered the equation. “I grew up in the kitchen next to my grandmother and mum,” the designer explains, “and all through my runway collection years, [I would] come home after a day of fittings and fashion show preparations, close the door, make something from beginning, middle to end within a span of 45 minutes, and enjoy it.”
A 45-minute meal and a 15-minute fashion show might not seem like they have that much in common, but in Som’s hands both come to life as a compelling showcase for self-expression and more often than not, a celebration of colour.
“How do you stand out?” the designer asks. “How does that product differentiate from everybody else? Even when I wrote this cookbook, I wanted my voice to be authentic. … I found that creative approach is how I approach everything. Obviously the fundamentals and technicalities are different, but you eat with your eyes – the same way a great outfit attracts your eye.”
Many of Som’s recipes, such as the potsticker frittata or char siu bacon cheeseburger, are as striking visually as they are strong on flavours, a reflection of the designer’s Chinese-American identity and penchant for making things that just work well together, be it fabrics and prints or spices and sauces. They’re also irresistibly fun to make, eat and look at. “Just like that outfit has to feel great when you put it on, so too does that dish have to taste great and be delicious,” says Som.
Som’s voice, unmistakably his own, shines through many of the book’s cheeky recipe titles, with undercurrents of his multifaceted, multicultural identity rising to the surface – think A Plate of Very Nice Oranges, a modern spin on the fruit slices traditionally served after a Chinese meal, or Mom’s Five-Spice Chicken (But on a Sheet Pan), another fun twist on a classic of Chinese cuisine. (Personally, I’m partial to the cacio e pepe sticky rice with egg.)
Then there are the fashion analogies sprinkled throughout, which allude to Som’s stylish past. The designer refers to stir-fries as the “little black dress of Chinese cooking”, meant to be accessorised and embellished, dressed up or down to the maker’s desire – a comparison that makes me chuckle inside in knowing agreement.