If Hong Kong was a dish, what would it be? Top chefs plate up their answers
Luke Armstrong of L’Envol at The St Regis Hong Kong and Alicia Castillo of The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, share how the city inspires them
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If Hong Kong was a dish, what would it be? Two chefs serve their culinary interpretations
Pizzas, hamburgers and sushi – these are just some of the foods that have come to define certain cultures. But a cuisine is about more than an iconic dish, and every dish contains much more than its ingredients. It can reflect not only a historic time and place, but also modernity and a chef’s creative flair.
So if Hong Kong was a dish, what would it be? That is the question put to Luke Armstrong, head chef of L’Envol restaurant at The St Regis Hong Kong, and Alicia Castillo, pastry and bakery chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong.
“It would be something vibrant,” Armstrong says, acknowledging the city’s multicultural dining scene and availability of the finest ingredients. “But what defines me is saffron and white asparagus.”
He continued: “If Hong Kong was a dish, it would be charcoal-grilled Japanese Wagyu beef from Kagoshima with Loire Valley [French] white asparagus cooked en croute and a nice spring bearnaise. A distinct influence of Hong Kong, Japan and France.”
Originally from Perth, Western Australia, Armstrong – who arrived in Hong Kong last November after working at acclaimed restaurants in Europe, Singapore and Japan – has developed an affinity for the city’s mix of calm and frenetic energy.
“I like to live my life with order and chaos,” he says. “That’s what you see when you walk through the city; some parts are chaotic, and some parts are very peaceful.”
Armstrong’s inspiration for his work comes in many forms, but the game of chess is a primary influence. “I enjoy competition, I enjoy strategy, and restaurants are not too dissimilar,” he says. “Everything comes through the hands in a restaurant, and you have 100 problems. But ultimately, you have to win the match, or accomplish the meal.”
Castillo, who hails from Mexico, spent a decade mastering her plated dessert skills at Michelin-star restaurants in Spain, Puerto Rico and Macau before coming to Hong Kong three years ago. She describes her chosen dish as “nutty, crunchy, vibrant”.
The chef says her culinary interpretation of Hong Kong would be a pistachio egg custard tart, combining the popular local delicacy with the greenest Italian pistachio nuts.
“Hong Kong is the perfect combination of East meets West. Pistachio is a European ingredient, and Italy is famous for its pistachios. I also wanted a very vibrant colour,” Castillo explains. “I wanted one European ingredient to integrate into the traditional egg tart. It brings a lot of joy to this dish.” She adds that she wanted to respect the origins of the egg tart while giving it her own twist.
For Castillo, her creations tell the stories of her inspirations while also providing her a way to connect to the community. Her mum taught her that food should be cooked with love and bring a shared happiness, a practice she continues wherever she is in the world.
“I try to connect with every place where I live, and every place brings a different experience. You learn in every place, and you become a different person in every place, because you need to adapt,” she says. “Hong Kong is my home right now.”
And when it comes to connecting with her present home, she notes: “I get inspiration everywhere I go, but the markets are where you feel the vibes of the people. It’s my way to taste Hong Kong.”
Check out the video to see both chefs explore different neighbourhoods in Hong Kong and create their dishes inspired by the city. The St Regis Hong Kong and The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, are both part of the Luxury Group by Marriott International portfolio of hotels.