How ‘painful bag’ became a popular subculture, fashion trend, especially among China youth

Chinese youth are enthusiastically adopting Japan’s “ita bag” fashion accessory style to showcase their admiration for beloved anime and real-life idols, elevating the culture with their imaginative designs. On China’s popular lifestyle-sharing platform, RedNote, the hashtag #tongbao, which means “painful bag” (the Chinese translation of ita bag), boasts 2.3 billion views. Originating in Japan around the 2010s, the “ita bag” refers to bags adorned with plushies, badges, or small cards representing the owner’s favourite anime characters. The arrangement of these items, officially termed as “goods,” is often so extravagantly filled that it creates a visually overwhelming effect, hence the name “ita bag.” The term “ita” in Japanese suggests an implication of “awkwardness,” indicating that owners might feel a sense of embarrassment while openly displaying their passion in public. Another interpretation is that the goods, especially the trendy ones, can be prohibitively expensive, meaning owners may spend a painful amount on them. Among anime aficionados, it is a well-known fact that, relative to the goods, the cost of the bags themselves is negligible. Limited-edition items can soar in price to nearly 100,000 yuan (US$14,000). Fans can transform a standard bag into an ita bag by embellishing it with goods. Alternatively, they can purchase specially designed ita bags featuring “windows” made of transparent vinyl panels to display and protect their prized possessions. These bags range in price from a few dozen yuan (a few US dollars) to several hundred yuan. Young fans readily share tips on purchasing and decorating their ita bags, turning social media platforms into vibrant communities where like-minded individuals can connect. A popular design technique involves acquiring multiple badges of the same design and arranging them neatly within the transparent window. Another method is to creatively combine badges, plushies, and cards with embellishments like laces, bows, feathers, and chains to create a visually cohesive image. Remarkably, some Chinese anime fans have devised designs that later gained popularity in Japan. This enthusiasm has even sparked a burgeoning ita bag decoration industry, with services charging upwards of hundreds of yuan per order. Liu Shiqin, one of China’s pioneering ita bag sellers, revealed that she earned her first million yuan (US$140,000) selling her custom designs at just 18. Her online store achieved sales exceeding three million yuan in under a year after its launch in 2017. During the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics, China’s diving sensation, 18-year-old Quan Hongchan, showcased her silver silk ribbon ita bag filled with badges of her likeness in front of cameras, thrusting this niche hobby into the limelight. This particular bag was reportedly a gift from a fan. On another occasion, Quan was seen with her China-team backpack adorned with an abundance of plushies, leading to playful remarks that she had “opened a zoo” on her backpack. A commenter quipped: “Understanding Quan’s bags is like understanding our kids.” Other celebrities, including K-pop icons like Blackpink’s Jisoo and Lisa, are also known for decorating their bags with doll charms. Lisa notably fuelled a global surge in popularity for Labubu, a doll line co-created by the Chinese brand Pop Mart and Hong Kong artist Kasing Lung. The contents of an ita bag aren’t restricted to anime figures; they may also feature real-life idols, banknotes, and even snacks. For these enthusiasts, an ita bag symbolises the freedom to express their diverse passions. For them, the meaning of the ita bag has evolved from its origins, becoming more about finding joy and relief in self-expression. Cai Haichao, a counsellor specialising in youth psychology, noted that the ita bag trend illustrates that young individuals today are increasingly willing to showcase their identities. Cai suggested that ita bags provide comfort, especially during times of boredom or stress. “It’s akin to collecting blind boxes or completing puzzles,” Cai explained. Some individuals have even developed techniques to adapt ordinary bags with subtle designs into ita bags, allowing them to carry their interests to work while minimising concern about others’ judgments. The “ita” aesthetic extends beyond bags, influencing other personal items such as cars, desks, bathrooms, nails, and sometimes even individuals. On Chinese social media, one user showcased their “ita dad,” a middle-aged man donning goods representing his daughter’s favourite character all over his attire.

How ‘painful bag’ became a popular subculture, fashion trend, especially among China youth

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}For ita bag enthusiasts, these creations symbolise freedom to express diverse passions, providing joy and relief through self-expression

For ita bag enthusiasts, these creations symbolise freedom to express diverse passions, providing joy and relief through self-expression