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Afghanistan after the US
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Afghanistan’s female guides are challenging stereotypes, one tour at a time

Tourism is a fledgling industry in Afghanistan, with annual visitors in the low thousands, but guided package tours are increasing

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Three foreign tourists visit Darul Aman Palace accompanied by three female tour guides in Kabul, Afghanistan, on May 28. Photo: AP
Associated Press

They wandered through the museum, listening attentively as their guide explained the antiquities in display cabinets. It could have been any tour group, anywhere in the world. But there was something unusual about this one.

The group of foreigners visiting the National Museum of Afghanistan was made up only of women. Its guide was a woman, too – one of the first Afghan female tour guides in a country whose Taliban rulers impose the severest restrictions on girls and women anywhere in the world.

Somaya Moniry, 24, had not known that tour guides existed, as a profession or even as a concept. But while browsing the internet for help on improving her English language skills, she stumbled upon Couchsurfing, an app where travellers connect with locals and stay in their homes.

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After hosting a traveller, “I became very passionate about it and it was very interesting for me”, Moniry said. “It was unique. I have never heard about it before, so I said: ‘Why not [do] this?’”

As she showed that first visitor around her hometown in western Afghanistan, she saw a new side to her country.

Afghan tour guide Somaya Moniry, (right) and Maryam, a local trainee tour guide (centre) accompany Australian tourist Suzanne Sandral, left, during a visit to the National Museum in Kabul, Afghanistan, on May 28. Photo: AP
Afghan tour guide Somaya Moniry, (right) and Maryam, a local trainee tour guide (centre) accompany Australian tourist Suzanne Sandral, left, during a visit to the National Museum in Kabul, Afghanistan, on May 28. Photo: AP

“Most of the things that we have heard [about Afghanistan] were just … negativity. The focus of the people, focus of the media, focus of headlines, all of them were just the negativity. And definitely we get influenced by that,” Moniry said.

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