Meet the Chinese baristas keeping Italian cafe culture alive
Cafes run by Chinese migrants have become a common sight in Italy, but behind each cup of coffee is a bittersweet story of cultural identity
Equally unmoving, Bar Foscarini has been around for more than 70 years, a quintessential Italian coffee bar, with a long, dark marble counter upon which sits an espresso machine polished to a mirror shine. The menu features what you would expect: coffee and sandwiches for the morning, aperitivo, pasta and pizza for later.
Gatta takes a sip of the espresso and teases Sophia, the young barista. “Hey, you went back to China last month to visit your family. How come you didn’t bring back a husband?”
Sophia flushes and continues the banter like old friends, part of the well-worn rapport between local regulars and counter staff. “Come on! I’m only 20 years old!” she replies in Italian.
Born Li Jiayi, Sophia migrated to Italy from Putian, in Fujian province, when she was 11. The other counter staff and the owner of this Venetian establishment are all Chinese, too.
Next to Sophia stands Zia, née Weng Qinglan, also from Fujian, prepping ingredients for the day’s food service. The 47-year-old chef has worked in the food and beverage industry since she arrived 17 years ago.
