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How Hong Kong’s culture connects with its relationship with chocolate

Ahead of the Belgian Chocolate Festival, we ask some of the country’s chocolatiers how their heritage intersects with Hong Kong’s appetite

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Pastry chef Michel Lo shapes a chocolate statue of The Smurfs that will weigh over 70 kilograms when completed.  Photo: Sarah Kohler
Jeff Yeung
Walk into any supermarket or mall and you’ll find dozens of chocolate brands from all corners of the world: French, Swiss, British, American – even a home-grown one from right here in Hong Kong that’s been making waves in recent years. But if there’s one country that can claim to be the champion of this indulgent confection, it has to be Belgium.
Tarquin Fontaine, founder of Tarquin Chocolatier, a bean-to-bar chocolate brand. Photo: @tarquinchocolatier/ Instagram
Tarquin Fontaine, founder of Tarquin Chocolatier, a bean-to-bar chocolate brand. Photo: @tarquinchocolatier/ Instagram

“In Belgium, chocolate is more than a treat – it’s a part of daily life,” says Tarquin Fontaine, founder of his eponymous artisanal, bean-to-bar chocolate brand. He name-checks fellow countrymen such as Jean Neuhaus II, who invented praline, or companies like Cote d’Or that earned Belgian confectioneries their global recognition. “Belgian chocolate is known all over the world for being rich, creamy and indulgent, and it represents comfort, pleasure and togetherness. Our climate isn’t always kind – it’s often cold and rainy – so chocolate brings a little warmth and happiness into our days.”

To Fontaine, it’s culture worth sharing, which is why he’s bringing his confections to this part of the world for the first time in the upcoming Belgian Chocolate Festival. Held at City University of Hong Kong, the two-day event forms part of the Belgium consulate’s Belgian Days celebration and runs from November 14 to 15. On top of exhibiting booths from brands including Pierre Marcolini and Frederic Blondeel, there will also be workshops covering everything from coffee and chocolate pairings to truffle-making, food photography and even designing chocolate wrapping paper.

Belgian-born culinary artist Michel Lo. Photo: Sarah Kohler
Belgian-born culinary artist Michel Lo. Photo: Sarah Kohler

Another highlight will be the large-scale chocolate sculptures created by Belgian-born culinary artist and chef Michel Lo, whose work has not only graced the halls of chocolate museums in Brussels and Bruges, but has also earned him a bronze medal at the Villeroy & Boch Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg. Invited by the Belgian consulate as a guest chef, he has teamed up with the International Culinary Institute (ICI) in Pok Fu Lam to create chocolate renditions of Belgium’s iconic Manneken Pis and The Smurfs.

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For the former, a famous bronze fountain sculpture in central Brussels depicting a naked boy urinating, Lo elected to double the size of the original, resulting in a statue that stands 1.1 metres tall and weighs more than 40kg. The latter, meanwhile, clocks in at an even more impressive weight of over 70kg.

A chocolate sculpture based on the Manneken Pis statue in Brussels. Photo: Sarah Kohler
A chocolate sculpture based on the Manneken Pis statue in Brussels. Photo: Sarah Kohler

“I have been working on this project since September,” Lo explains. “All the chocolate had to be shipped over from Belgium, so it was a big project not just in terms of craftsmanship but also logistics. The Manneken Pis was chosen because it’s one of the most famous statues in Brussels and, obviously, everyone knows The Smurfs.”

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Because of the scale of the sculptures, the key challenge was in maintaining their structural integrity, which required regulating the humidity and temperature, says Lo. The treatment and preparation of the chocolate also played huge roles, but “fortunately, the ICI is equipped with everything I need. I’m very proud to be representing my culture in this way”.

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