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The woman bringing indigenous Sarawak food to the world – Marian Chin

Known for documenting the flavours of her native Kuching, Malaysia, Marian Chin is taking her culinary finds to Hong Kong for the first time

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A Sarawak native jungle cooking. Photo: courtesy KINO magazine
Andrew Sun

“Come, I want you to have a look at my office,” says Marian Chin, stepping into her kitchen and pantry in Kuching, Sarawak. Each shelf is lined with jars and bottles of herbs, spices, preserves and other indigenous foods found only in the jungle of the East Malaysia state.

As a food activist, researcher and editor, Chin has been at the forefront of cataloguing her homeland’s rich biodiverse culture. Located in the northwest of the island Borneo, Sarawak is home to rainforests, rivers, jungles and more than 30 ethnic groups, each with their own distinct dialects, cultures and traditions in foraging for sustenance. Though Chin often knows of the ingredients found in Sarawak, each tribe might have a different name for them. “I had to research and rediscover a lot of it,” she says.
Marian Chin. Photo: Shawn Ling
Marian Chin. Photo: Shawn Ling
Chin’s findings aren’t just academic. She has launched an event called Plating the Wild, collaborating with chefs to introduce ingredients and flavours – many of which had never been tasted outside Sarawak – to other regions of Malaysia and Asia.
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Hong Kong gets its first taste of Plating the Wild at the Aberdeen Marina Club, from December 4 to 6, for member dinners. A separate dinner and talk, featuring Chin and Kuching chef Alexandros Ting, will take place on December 8 at Café 8, above the Maritime Museum in Central Pier.

Chin relishes the surprises that come from meeting people through her work. “I just spent a morning with a person who knows how to make Engkabang butter [a vegan fat made from vegetables and trees],” Chin says. “Usually it’s a tribe native, but this guy is Chinese. His background is in [Chinese] medicine and he learned it from his master.”

Vegetables and herbs from Sarawak. Photo: courtesy KINO Magazine
Vegetables and herbs from Sarawak. Photo: courtesy KINO Magazine

As a child, Chin loved exploring the forest behind where she lived in Kuching and collecting what she found. “I remember that was my favourite thing to do – running to the forest, finding a pitcher plant and even drinking from it,” she says. “Before I could walk, I was already interested in smells – the smell of leaves, bark – and looking through a leaf and seeing light shine through it. I was considered kind of strange, but I was extremely sensitive about these things.”

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