Dish in Focus: Toasted sesame tofu at Mosu Hong Kong

This tasting menu-only restaurant has quickly become a destination for diners seeking something more than just a meal, but a dining experience that weaves together Asian traditions and cutting-edge techniques in a sleek and artfully minimalist setting.

At the heart of Mosu’s carefully calibrated progression of courses arrives a dish that is both a signature and a cipher for the restaurant’s philosophy: toasted sesame tofu. Head chef Bruno Jeong Jin-hwan explains, “We call this dish tofu, but it’s not actually real tofu.”

Taking inspiration from classic Japanese goma “tofu” – traditionally made with ground sesame paste and kuzu flour and first encountered by executive chef Sung Anh while working at a Japanese restaurant – the Mosu team set out to create its own interpretation. “[Chef Sung] used hydrocolloid ingredients and modern techniques to control the texture and create his own interpretation of the dish,” explains Jeong.

What defines this dish is an unwavering attention to process. “It’s actually difficult to make the right texture. It’s not about technique. [It’s about] understanding ingredients,” Jeong says. Preparation is as much about instinct as it is about skill. Various vegetable juices – derived from potato, leek, ginger and a handful of herbs – are steamed and carefully juiced to form the sauce, which will later wrap the rich, nutty base of toasted sesame, subtly enhanced with just the right viscosity, achieved by a chef wielding a paddle with practised intuition.

Hidden within the silken folds of this “tofu” is uni, sourced either from Japan or California depending on the season. Jeong describes “the rich and nutty flavour of sesame combined with the taste of sea urchin” as one that is complemented by the silky texture of the tofu. A brushstroke of wasabi and a flutter of gold flake crown the composition, while a final pour of vegetable sauce adds levity. Each element is chosen for a reason, each process refined in pursuit of balance.