Review / Upper House Chengdu blends Qing dynasty heritage with modern luxury
Formerly known as The Temple House, Swire’s urban sanctuary in Tai Koo Li pairs historic architecture with Michelin-starred teahouse dining
Ask anybody who knows a thing or two about luxury travel in Asia for recommendations on where to stay in Chengdu – the Chinese city known for its pandas and spicy food – and the answer is likely to be Upper House Chengdu, formerly known as The Temple House.
The vibrant lifestyle district of Tai Koo Li Chengdu boasts a blend of indoor and outdoor spaces, featuring traditional buildings and historic structures. This is echoed in the hotel, which is built on the site of an old temple. Before approaching their rooms, guests are greeted by a stone gate dating back to the Qing dynasty, revealing a courtyard filled with hanging red lanterns. As you explore the common areas, what is most striking is how the modern structures blend with the older ones. Bamboo trees, brick walls and wooden beams nod to the architecture of old Chengdu’s busy alleyways.
As you would expect from an Upper House property, the 100 rooms and suites, and 42 serviced apartments are comfortable and luxurious mini pied-à-terres. Wood furniture, earth tones, spacious bathrooms and just the right amount of decorative touches make them modern-day sanctuaries, especially if you get to stay in one with a balcony or terrace.
Like most of the hotel’s public spaces, the painstakingly landscaped gardens are not secluded from the city – rather, they welcome passers-by going for a stroll or shopping in the area. The hotel’s restaurants and bars, all with outdoor seating, attract Chengdu’s stylish set, offering some great people-watching in one of China’s most fashionable cities.
If you want to take a break from the local food – which can be quite intense for those who are not used to the unique numbing and spicy flavour of dishes such as mapo tofu and dan dan noodles – Tivano is an elegant but not too formal Italian fine dining restaurant. The menu features delicious pizzas, pastas and a selection of risottos, including one with rabbit meat, which chef Riccardo Baronchelli concocted as a homage to the locals, who sometimes eat spicy rabbit heads as a snack.
Michelin-starred Mi Xun Teahouse offers vegetarian cuisine and a vast selection of fine teas. The buzzy Jing bar and The Temple Café – a casual all-day eatery serving Western and Sichuanese dishes – round out the dining offerings.